“I start out making something, but at a certain point it starts to make its own choices, all by itself”, says Alessandro Gualtieri. His style is unique and inimitable. His extraordinary perfumes are based on the highest-quality raw materials. Their intensely evocative effect oscillates between authenticity and pleasure, inspiration and a good dose of lunacy. Contrary to conventional scents, NASOMATTO fragrances are always centered on the various individual scent components and personal associative interpretations of the wearer.
Rapture, pleasure and a sense of promise that goes its unpredictable way – the fragrances by Alessandro Gualtieri spirit the wearer away on a journey full of climactic moments: from scents with names that clearly and unmistakably signpost the way ahead, to fragrances of overwhelming sensuality, to the olfactory ecstasy of a fusion of different scents. NASOMATTO is the art of letting the sense of smell alone be your guide.
by Maurice Roucel
Jardin Nocture is the second fragrance composition that star perfumer Maurice Roucel has created for New York-based fashion label Shalini. Jardin Nocturne immerses us in the enchanting world of the Orient. The blue hour has long since passed and the shadow of night slowly falls over the city; calm has come to the park. The soft silhouette of a couple disappears as they wander down a winding path into the darkness of night. The moon casts its silvery beams down to reflect off the surface of the pond. The night air is filled with the heady scent of night-blooming flowers. Jardin Nocturne is an enigmatic, seductive scent oozing an irresistible erotic magic.
AEDES DE VENUSTAS
Soon after opening in 1995 in New York’s Greenwich Village, Aedes de Venustas (Lat. for Temple of Beauty) had already become a Mecca for fragrance lovers from throughout the globe. Its Bohemian style is now legendary. Robert Gerstner and Karl Bradl, both native Bavarians, were the first to establish the culture of French perfume in New York, and their shop quickly went from insider tip to undisputed Manhattan “in” spot.
In 2012, Gerstner and Bradl fulfilled a long-cherished desire when they presented their own fragrance collection. Bertrand Duchaufour, Ralf Schwieger, Alberto Morillas, Rodrigo Flores-Roux and François Pellegrin translated Karl Bradl’s bold and über-creative ideas into scents that transmit emotional stories, personal travel recollections and profound, intensive sensations. The eight compelling eau de parfum variations present surprising combinations of frankincense with unexpected ingredients, such as tomato leaf, rhubarb, vanilla and salty mineral notes. AEDES DE VENUSTAS delights lovers of frankincense and bestows unforgettable moments of happiness.
D.S. & DURGA
The brand D.S. & Durga was founded in early 2000 by D.S. (David Seth Moltz) and Durga (Kavi Moltz) in Brooklyn, New York. They started out by experimenting in their own kitchen, where together they turned their homemade distillates of buds, barks and herbs into aftershave creations for their friends. The manufacturing process remains reminiscent of the traditional preindustrial production sites of early North America. The makers believe that fragrance can conjure unseen worlds, and that the evocative power of scent is equal to that of sight and sound stimuli. For D.S. & Durga, artistry is the first priority. The founding couple regard the brand as their own special universe: all fragrances are crafted in careful artisanal processes exclusively at their Bronx production facility. They draw inspiration from legacy herbalist knowledge; from the ritual medicine of aboriginal peoples; from tradition and legend and American history – its iconic movements and fascinating footnotes. The fragrances tell of gold prospectors, aristocrats, homesteaders, pioneering women, salons, work benches, cowboys – fragments of half-forgotten events and tales from foreign lands. The manufacturing processes are highly sophisticated, the contents of highest quality: overall product excellence is more important than the unit numbers.
LIGHTS AND SHADOWS
Hommage à Paul Klee
Paul Ernst Klee was a German painter and graphic designer whose wide-ranging oeuvre exhibits elements of expressionism, constructivism, cubism, primitivism and surrealism. The fragrance ‘Lights and Shadows’, created by master perfumer Vincent Micotti/YS Uzac in collaboration with descendants of Klee, is an olfactory homage to the artist. The scent reflects his eventful life, his beloved music, his journeys to foreign shores and, of course the paintings. Klee’s tireless, almost restless creative energy and enormous output has given us a unique and sublime legacy. “I am a painter”, affirmed Paul Klee in a 1914 dairy entry at the end of a trip to Tunisia. Despite his great talent as a draftsmen Klee’s journey to painting and to color was a long process of artistic self-discovery. He loved to experiment, combining a broad spectrum of artistic media, and was a visionary in more than just his visual language. With its key notes of rhubarb, fruits, powdery nights, ink, paper, shadows and fragrant wood burning, the fragrance charts the life, times and work of this great artist, full of contrast and color, vigor and poignancy, light and shadow.
MiN NEW YORK
MiN NEW YORK is an avant-garde art project from the United States that transcends borders and blazes new trails. Chad Murawczyk uses his MiN NEW YORK Scent Stories to present a contemporary lifestyle. His bold compositions are a striking union of emotional fragrance architecture and extravagant design.
is creativity focuses on artistic freedom and raw materials of outstanding quality. 16 individual scent ideas reflect personal memories, passions and emotional high points of his life. Exclusive aromatic substances and exquisite materials meld to form artworks borne by profound feelings. The MiN NEW YORK scent project inspires us to rethink our understanding of fragrance in the classic sense, and invites us to open up to new impulses. Chad Murawczyk is always on the lookout for new ideas and challenges. He infuses the collection with an assured sense of style and keen instinct for success stories. His many years of experience give the personal “short stories” by MiN NEW YORK their own very special, distinctive character.
CARE & CONSIDER
Jeroen Oude Sogtoen is the founder of the brand. A graduate of Amsterdam’s Fashion Institute, after ten years in the fashion industry he turned his talents to interior design – down to the last detail – for hotels. For “his” hotels, Sogtoen created his own body care and home fragrance line. True to its motto “consider & care” Zenology is especially dedicated to environmental awareness: respect and responsibility for nature put into practice in environmentally friendly, sustainable production and processes. Most of the ingredients derive from renewable resources and embody a union of botanical compounds, minerals and vitamins . Zenology products are free from parabens, mineral oils and silicone. They contain no artificial colors or aromas, are sulfate-free, and are not tested on animals.
HUMIECKI & GRAEF
Cologne-based brand HUMIECKI & GRAEF puts its own twist on fragrance market conventions, rearranging and reinterpreting classic methods of concept development and design. The brand revolves around the core fragrance series co-created by top collaborative noses “Les Christophes” – Christophe Laudamiel and Christof Hornetz. A whole spectrum of human emotions, from fury to folly, served as inspiration for the composition of truly out-of-the-ordinary fragrances. The scents play all the notes on the aroma scale, in unusual chords. In Multiple Rouge, a fragrance about “ecstatic joy on the cusp of sentimentality” we discover a composition including wild red berries, frozen orange and immortelle absolute. In Skarb, a perfume inspired by the masculine melancholy of the “deep Slavic soul”, a progressive interpretation of a woody-spicy fragrance that includes the interplay of lovage, frankincense and musk notes.
The same degree of sensitivity applied to the scent composition has also gone into the carefully detailed visual design of the brand. The flacons design is contemporary elegant-minimalist, with a special signature adaptation for each individual fragrance: the cap and the band around the bottle that bears the name are rendered in different materials, textures and colors for each scent. The HUMIECKI & GRAEF journey takes us through a multitude of inspirations and narratives to the depths our culture.
MIRKO BUFFINI Firenze
Italian fragrance meets Asian minimalism. Founded in 2010, the artisanal perfume house Mirko Buffini Parfum can already boast an impressive portfolio of successes. Headquartered in Florence, the company takes up the long perfumery tradition of the city, which goes back to the Renaissance. The fragrance creations are developed according to the time-honored artistic tradition of Florentine perfumery in an in-house perfume laboratory in Florence. Many of the Mirko Buffini scents are inspired by Far-Eastern traditions, history and ancient legends, reflected in scents with names including ‘Haiku’, ‘Moxi’ and ‘Ki’. The brand does, in fact, have an especially enthusiastic following in Asia. These scents take a story and spin their own yarn out of it, skillfully combining exotic olfactory notes to create a complex and compelling composition with a minimalist design. Each of the fascinating scents develops its bouquet wonderfully on the skin. Even after several hours’ wear, Mirko Buffini perfumes present a surprisingly multi-layered array of fragrance notes.
FUEGUIA 1833 is Julian Bedel’s passionate declaration of love to the wild, rugged beauty and biodiversity of a region that had mesmerized Charles Darwin and his travelling companions back in the 19th century: Patagonia. In 2010 the Argentinian Bedel founded FUEGUIA 1833 as a tribute to this botanical treasure chest of the South American continent – for the first time uniting the indigenous plant word in a fragrance collection. Among the many FUEGUIA scents, the new MUSKARA collection deserves special notice. These six new enticing fragrances all have one thing in common: an absolutely unique PHEROMON molecule at the base. Pheromones are neurotransmitters that enhance the attractiveness of the wearer vis-à-vis his or her environment. These substances have their own rhythm of motion and surround us like an invisible, magical aura. Each of these six new variations has been equipped with a carefully selected special extra element that ensures an utterly unique fragrance experience.
As uncommon as the fragrances themselves is their packaging. Each flacon is housed in a handmade little cedarwood box. FUEGUIA 1833 is made for connoisseurs who seek true values and time-honored tradition.
Founder Pierre, himself a musician, worked together with master instrument craftsmen to understand the feel and scent of musical instruments – essences of guitar wood, trombone brass, kora leather. The sublime perfumer duo of Anne-Sophie Behagel & Amélie Bourgeois combined these with sensuous, evocative perfume notes to create a truly exceptional fragrance collection. 5 talented musicians then carefully composed an original piece of music for each scent. This collaboration opens up a whole new dimension in perfumery, creating a multisensory experience inspired by a wide range of various musical genres. Influences from cool jazz, to fiery flamenco, from a rhythmic African beat to meditative Asian sounds lend the L’Orchestre fragrances a special timbre that appeals to the ears almost as it does to the nose.
Unconventional, ardent, courageous and always on the lookout for new inspirations: hot-blooded Sicilian Giuseppe Imprezzabile has dedicated himself heart and soul to scent. His fragrance collection MEO FUSCIUNI takes its name from his nickname, Meo, and an epithet that was his grandfather’s description of the young Giuseppe, a curious boy always in motion, like flowing– fusciuni – water.
The trained aromatario studied Herbal Techniques at the University of Parma’s School of Pharmacology; anthropology in Morocco; and ethnobotany in Turkey. Already perfectly at home in the world of herbs, spices, and essential oils, in 2009, Giuseppe Imprezzabile fulfilled a lifelong dream by creating his own fragrance line: MEO FUSCIUNI. With a passion for vigorous, dramatic, profound scents full of character, the nose from Sicily was soon a force to be reckoned with on the international artistic perfumery scene.
The ‘Come Hell or High Water’ Collection
BeauFort London has launched a collection of five distinctive fragrances. Leo Crabtree, the creative captain of the BeauFort project drew his inspiration from Britain’s rich nautical past. Driven by curiosity and the desire to cast light into the darker corners of history, the collection – bold, sometimes contrary and ever venturous – breaths new life into the fascinating, the peculiar, and the downright bizarre. ‘Come Hell or High Water’ is fuelled at all times by the desire to expand experience. These fragrances open a window to the collective subconscious, endeavoring to illuminate moments past, fragments of shared history. The identity of the BeauFort fragrance collection is deeply bound up with the sea, its traditions, superstitions and the seafaring way of life. Expect to discover an extraordinary, scintillating, scandalous, and very English example of artistic perfume mastery.
Affinessence founder Sophie Bruneau is an expert in haute parfumerie, well connected in the fragrance world and personally acquainted with its top talents. Her collection ‘Notes de Fond’ is devoted solely to the essences that conventionally serve as base notes. These intensive, long-lasting fragrance notes that represent the quintessence of the perfumer’s art here take center stage. Musk, amber, patchouli, vanilla, sandalwood and sometimes a hint of basmati rice lend these scents their mesmerizing, sensual magnetism. Their unique magic comes to full fruition on the skin, exuding reassurance, trust and self-confidence. They touch the senses, immersing us in a world full of exotic enchantment; they take hold and don’t let go. The Affinessence approach, pulling the base notes into the foreground, is completely new. Elegant and infallibly persistent, they offer a genuine “scent signature”. These perfumes can even be worn under a favorite everyday fragrance to underscore its sensuality and create a truly unique, bespoke scent. Affinessence is a highly sophisticated concept with results that are refined, exotic and utterly captivating.
“From Vienna, with Love”
The term “Wiener Blut” (lit. Viennese blood) was coined in 1873. It describes the “unique blend of archness and hedonism attributed to the Viennese” – the high society of fin-de-siècle imperial Vienna in particular. Alexander Lauber, the creative force behind the brand, went rummaging in the chronicles of history, dusting off tales of prominent Viennese players and anecdotes of the day, taking us back in time to the captivating scenes of a magnificent era. Alexander Lauber describes himself as something of a fragrance forensic scientist. He trawls archives, libraries and auctions rooting out literature about perfumes, their origins and their pervasive presence in social history. Lauber’s findings inspire his own olfactory creations. WienerBlut products are made exclusively at the company’s own manufacturing facility. Ingredients are always select. Extremely rare, superior quality raw materials are used whenever available. Packaging components are handcrafted and, in a finishing touch of old world elegance, the flacons are filled and labeled by hand as well.
Gritti is built on a centuries-old family perfumery heritage. The new line, launched in 2010, reinterprets the original formulas of direct ancestor Alvise Gritti, a 16th century Venetian nobleman and alchemist. An eccentric and itinerant traveller, he was also deeply immersed in Venetian court culture, including its vice and intrigue. The brand logo is the Gritti coat of arms, which bears the Latin motto: sustinet nec fatiscit – he holds up and does not weary. Gritti fragrances thus bear the seal of one of the most revered and prominent Doge dynasties of the “Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia” – the most serene republic of Venice. Alvise Gritti was a pioneer in the creation of perfumes that arouse emotions and tell stories, and today’s Gritti scents uphold the tradition, breathing new life into tales of the fascinating world of Renaissance Venice. They tell of the Doges and court life, of dissolute courtesans obsessed with elegance and sensuality and of the multicultural nature of Venetian society even then. Drawing on this colorful tapestry of impressions, the fragrances interpret the rich historical epoch with formidable mastery.
MAD ET LEN
The little French artisan perfume manufactory is a two-person operation: Sandra Fuzier and Alexandre Piffaut founded the company in 2007 after settling in the little village of St. Julien de Verdon in the south of France. It is quite close to Grasse, the Mecca of perfumery, where the age-old craft of art and craft of perfume creation still flourishes today. One of the most famous passages in French and indeed world literature inspired the name of the new label. Mad et Len is a reference to the renowned madeleine cake vignette that appears near the start of Marcel Prousts’ epic work ‘À la recherche du temps perdu’.
The distinctive Mad et Len perfumes pick up on the Proustian theme of the close relationship between memory and smell. The scents aim to reawaken our senses, “numbed” by the routines, stresses and distractions of daily life. The tiny, exclusive production site relies solely on handcraftsmanship: for Mad et Len that doesn’t just mean mixing their own fragrances. The pair go a step farther, creating their own perfume oils from woods, flowers and herbs from the southern French Alps, a process that can take up to two years. No surprise then that Mad et Len perfumes are available in very limited editions only.
SACRE DU PRINTEMPS
A tribute to Igor Stravinsky
Paris, 1913: the premiere of Stravinsky’s ballet and orchestral work ‘Sacre du Printemps’ for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russe takes the music world by storm, marking the beginning of the modern era. To mark the 100th anniversary of this sensational turning point in music Vincent Micotti/YS Usac created a fragrance worthy of the occasion: an extraordinary scent, savage, radiant, assertive. The overture begins with smoky accords, followed by unconventional greens and finishing with a slightly sweet, sensuous coda – daring, provocative, simply ingenious.
Nomenclature, an avant-garde fragrance project from New York, presents revolutionary aromatic molecules from the cutting edge of contemporary perfumery. With their ultra-modern compositions, fragrance aficionados Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero unite design, art and expert know-how. Each creation revolves around 5 synthetic fragrance molecules that have had a lasting influence on modern perfumery. These secret superstars have long worked behind the scenes in carefully guarded fragrance laboratories. Many famous iconic scent creations wouldn’t exist without them. They appear in the supporting role of a formula, but are actually principal players. The “heroes” of a fragrance are, of course, the natural odorants, which always get to bathe in the limelight. But the true revolutionaries of the fragrance world are those conceived of, conjured up and optimized by scientists in creative labs. They are inspired by and mimic nature, perfecting the distinctive character of an aromatic substance, leading us into fragrance worlds inaccessible by means of botany alone. They open the portals to new dimensions, allowing us to expand the scope of our imagination. From the synergy of poetry and science emerge fragrances imbued with the beauty of modernity. Nomenclature casts 5 modern aromatic protagonists in compositions with all the potential of becoming 21st century classics.
RÉGIMES DES FLEURS
Founders Ezra Wood and Alia Raza describe themselves as fragrance nerds. The collection draws on nature and culture, melding the rich source that is history and art with the wealth of the plant world. The companion eaux de parfum collection Pour Tous is inspired by the “sublime drama of the botanical kingdom” that stirs our senses and ignites our imagination. The five scents present a surprising individuality, subtlety and savvy sophistication. Extremely rare and precious aromatic ingredients in utterly unconventional combinations give a completely new take on scent. These works draw us into their magic realm and hold us captive there.
BY MAURICE ROUCEL
Perfumer Maurice Roucel has, with Amorem Rose, created a bona fide olfactory masterpiece centered on the Bulgarian rose. Evocative saffron flowers, Baltic amber and mahogany lend their special magic to round the scent off to perfection. An ode to the greatest love, Amorem Rose is precious and exquisite, full of enchantment and mysterious charm.
NISHANE is the first and as yet only Turkish fragrance brand to have received international acclaim immediately following its launch. This very special collection was born in 2015 in Istanbul, where East and West meet and meld. As a product of this unique and authentic cultural environment NISHANE spans a bridge between Orient and Occident.
Inspired by the long tradition of a city that has played host to many different cultures over the course of its history, Creative Directors Murat Katran and Mert Güzel, both Istanbul natives, have created an exceptional, artistically sophisticated fragrance collection. Sublime and rare essences provide the basis for this extraordinary and exclusive line, to the delight of niche-market perfume lovers the world over.
by Geza Schön
Escentric Molecules is the brand of perfumer Geza Schön. The Berliner “nose” founded it with the aim of setting new accents in the world of fragrance. His scents are unusual, surprising and bewildering. They do not conform to classic market constraints, and instead put the focus on a single substance and its effect. For Escentric Molecules he created two versions of each fragrance. The “Molecules“ versions are each based on a single synthetic odorant molecule. This is a revolutionary use of aromatic substances and a total departure from the classic fragrance pyramid with head, heart and base notes. The “Escentric“ version takes a flight of olfactory fancy around the same molecule. For this, Schön deploys an unusually high concentration of the base molecule and creates shrewd, minimalist compositions to accompany it. Can a fragrance be revolutionary? This is a truly provocative question. There is much about Escentric Molecules to suggest it can. But the brand has, without question, achieved its goal of setting new accents in the world of fragrance.
Filippo Sorcinelli, scion of a prominent Bolognese family with a centuries-old textile manufacturing business, laid the foundation for this new, youthful perfume house. For generations, his family has held the privileged warrant of official purveyor to the Papel Curia. The elaborate and lavish robes of the Roman clerics bear witness to the rich heritage and consummate artisan skill of the family’s traditional production operation.
In 2015 the close association to the Papal Curia gave rise to the idea of enhancing the textile manufactory with a companion fragrance line. It would be devoted, appropriately, to frankincense and spirituality, but also to an infinite spirit that transcends all boundaries.
BAGATELLE DE GABRIELLE
Fragrant orange blossoms, freesia, lily-of-the-valley and tuberose caress our senses with their delicate and exotic enchantment. Sandalwood from Mysore, tangy bergamot and aromatic lavender merge with the sensuous notes of the tonka bean. A scent replete with subtlety, sophistication and Mediterranean magic.
LA PARFUMERIE VIOLET
Fondée en 1827 à Paris
The story of the Maison Violet perfumery emporium began way back in 1827 in Paris, when monsieur Violet founded his company for the manufacture and sale of cosmetic products. In its earliest years of operations, the company caused a stir with inventive new production processes, which it registered for patents. The firm went on to receive major awards for its innovations. Maison Violet headquarters at 12 Boulevard des Capucines in the center of Paris quickly became an acclaimed address and attracted an enthusiastic international following. In the year 1842, Violet was appointed purveyor to both the French imperial court of Empress Eugénie and the royal court of Queen Isabella of Spain. In 1858, the house took on the designation “À la Reine des Abeilles - Maison Violet” (To the Queen Bee – the House of Violet). At the Paris World Exposition of 1867, Louis Claye, director of Violet at the time, was honored for his work. During his lifetime, Violet advanced to become one of the 10 top perfume houses in France. From 1885, the company was already being traded on the stock market and was an active exporter, with the US, England, Russia, Germany, Spain and Portugal among its key foreign markets. At that time, Maison Violet employed over 250 workers in its factories. Many years of prosperous trade followed. But the Great Depression, sandwiched between the two World Wars, brought a dramatic turn of fortunes that saw the business finally grind to a halt in 1953. But in 2015, Paul, Anthony and Victorien, three young entrepreneurial perfumers fresh from their studies at the ESP Grasse, decided to reawaken a sleeping beauty, breathing new life into the Maison Violet legend.
“olfactory ode to summer”
The fragrance Théros is based on an unusually large dose of the rare and very costly genuine Vietnamese Kyara oud oil, which is nothing like the sort of oud found in countless mainstream scents. When star conductor Teodor Currentzis commissioned perfumer Vincent Micotti/YS Uzac to compose a fragrance “like a romantic summer scenery”, he had something very specific in mind. Teodor Currentzis’ personal interpretation of summer and sun-drenched sand can be experienced on multiple levels in this creation. Like an alchemical mystery, oud accords blend with true ambergis, patchouli and a warm sand accord. The perfectly pitched combination fine-tunes our perception, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the sensuous seaside joys of summer.
Teresa developed a passion for fashion very early on. She grew up in her mother’s own fashion atelier, surrounded by textiles, needles and thread. She says that every single day, her mother taught her that much of the beauty of a great fashion creation lies in what you don’t immediately see. That explains why fashion designer Teresa Helbig is such a perfectionist today, with an obsession for painstaking detail reflected in the handcrafted finishing of each of her designs. Her fashion atelier is situated in the heart of Barcelona, a city of countless contrasts that never ceases to stimulate and inspire. Teresa Helbig imbued her fragrance collection with the same spirit. The charismatic perfumes were created according to the highest standards of quality and artisan mastery. They embody subtly provocative elegance and thoroughly persuasive sophistication.
Vincent Micotti was born into an artist family in Lausanne. As a teenager he had already discovered his passion for perfumes. He translates dedicated musicianship – Micotti was a professional classical cellist - and broad general knowledge of art into highly expressive elixirs with a strong narrative ambiance: “What fascinates me in the process of perfume creation is the possibility to project the most abstract concepts into emotions while remaining within the realm of an intangible artwork. Using my imagination and creativity to sketch an exquisite wonderland is my greatest passion in life.”
Micotti’s fragrances are inspired by the beauty of nature and art. Each olfactory composition has a distinctive character that captures extraordinary, emotional moments. Each sent is designed to accentuate the individuality and sensuality of its wearer, unleash unfettered flights of fancy, and underscore every look with a bold personal statement. Vincent Micotti’s desire to practice perfumery in a truly contemporary idiom is expressed in his determination to make fragrances made of over 90% select natural ingredients. He is also co-designer of the iconic “dressed up“ flacon, which lends the product a bespoke appearance befitting its exclusive status.
Parfums d’Elmar was launched in 2017, born of the idea to set new standards in the artisanal luxury perfumery sector.
Created in close collaboration with master perfumer Mark Buxton, the line celebrates the sensuous aspects of love. Precious agarwood appears as a signature olfactory note in each of the fragrances. The exceptional concentration of fragrance oils used in the perfumes results in the astonishing depth of the scents. The term “quintessence de parfum” refers to a rare 35-percent concentration of the most noble and precious ingredients in each individual handcrafted flacon.
Mark Buxton has succeeded in elegantly translating the complex themes of passionate desire, pleasure and true love into a distinctive, opulent fragrance language. The best absolutes of each raw ingredient are masterfully combined to form complex and outrageously luxurious quintessences de parfums.
Genuine leather envelopes the glass flacons, which are crowned by a stopper made of semiprecious medals decorated with 360 Swarovski crystals.
BALLON DE SOIE
by YS Uzac
The creation of Vincent Micotti of YS Uzac ,Ballon de Soie is a floral masterpiece of exceptional quality. The composition is centered on an absolute of finest Sambac jasmine, the queen of all Jasmine varieties. It takes around 8,000 of the handpicked jasmine flowers to make one gram of the absolute. The fragrance is rounded off to perfection with osmanthus, the flower of a rare Chinese olive tree, and delicious Bourbon vanilla. Buoyant and flooded with light, the scent magically draws us in, holding us captive with an enigmatic force.
The collection ‘Les Potions Fatales’ explores the deceptive and fascinating aspects of nine of the most potent and infamous poisonous flowers. Over the centuries, belladonna, hemlock, digitalis and lily-of-the-valley have played a key role in not a few nefarious undertakings.
‘Les Potions Fatales’ is a fragrant foray into the turbulent history of these intriguing florals. They entice us with their fatal, beguiling charm, and hold us captive forevermore. The intoxicating, seductive series of scents reveal their unique allure at first sight: dark, disconcerting and extremely dangerous.
Many of the eponymous poisonous plants actually produce little or no aromatic substances that could be used in perfumery. So Joseph Quartana, originator of the collection concept, presented the team of nine expert perfumers from the company Symrise with a daunting mission: to portray the essence and character of these flowers in fragrance.
When well-established Dutch fashion designer Lillian Driessen decided to launch her own label for fashion and furniture design, shop concepts and a fragrance collection, she chose the euphonious brand name Maria Lux. Driessen describes the fictitious character as her “perfect alter ego” and her muse: the name Maria evokes images of the virgin, the mother, and the lover. Lux, on the other hand, stands for the trinity of light, luxury and lust. The perfume line MariaL is a collaborative project with Alessandro Gualtieri, AKA The Nose. The initiator, in her own words: “The ‘L’ is me Lillian Driessen, designer and creative director. (…)I’ve been working in this profession since 1987. I embrace work-in-progress, the effort and collective excitement that lies in the process. As I have touched and been touched, there are many stories to tell. The house creates anarchic tailored elegance and raw luxury. A concept I adapt to all products I develop, executed and produced with love and care by masters of their craft. Everything we do we approach with personal attention. We search for exclusivity, privacy and delicacy in a thoughtful but informal manner. The perfumes are inspired by love, the most complex, by far most grandiose human emotion, which will never materialize.”
TRISTAN & ISOLDE
A Tribute to Richard Wagner
The late 12th century King Arthur saga inspired Richard Wagner to his epic opera, which tells the tragic love story of the young Tristan and the Irish princess Isolde. Wagner began to compose this work during a stay in Zurich in 1853. Master perfumer Ramon Monegal pays homage to this great composer in a pair of olfactory creations available only in Zurich.
black pepper, frankincense, cedar and pine accords give Tristan its spirited, fresh overture. Myrrh, cypress and Haitian vetiver lend seductive sensuality and depth.
heady accords of green fig, iris and fragrant jasmine flowers give Isolde beguiling allure. Tonka, oak moss, caramel and delectable Bourbon vanilla captivate, inviting us to surrender completely to their charms.
The Mancera brand was created in 2008 by a group of designers and perfumers under the direction of renowned perfumer Pierre Montale. Originally intended for the Middle Eastern market the brand is designed to bridge Oriental and Occidental perfume cultures. The reason being that many fragrance lovers in a Middle Eastern cultural context are increasingly interested in Western fragrance concepts with the long-lasting, extremely charismatic power of the classic Oriental notes. With its innovative concept Mancera creates a perfect olfactory symbiosis of European and traditional Middle Eastern fragrance culture.
Mark Buxton was born in England and grew up near Hamburg. For over 20 years, Buxton has lived and worked in Paris. A wine connoisseur, talented cook and antique lover with a special passion for Art Deco, Buxton is first and foremost: a magnificent perfumer creator, a true master of the craft. For 25 years, he has fascinated an enthusiastic and loyal fan following throughout the world with fragrance creations best described in his own words: “I am fond of short formulas, absolute simplicity, noble raw materials, classical and natural, and shake them (up) with a daring modernity…but always with an aesthetic obligation.”
SOUS LE MANTEAU
Created by French master Nathalie Feisthauer Sous le Manteau is inspired by an old recipe book for love potions from a 19th century French apothecary. Back then, these mysterious formulas, often handed down over hundreds of years, were all top secret – they represented the capital of the pharmacists of the day. Thus ancient recipes and often centuries-old legends found their way into the prescription books of alchemists and healers. The goal: to arouse desire, apprehending the “victim” with a fatal enchantment.
This series of fragrance candles by Regimes des Fleurs of Santa Monica, California is inspired by the artifacts of times long gone by. The collection consists of four different fragrance notes, each embodying the essence of a great epoch of civilization. The candles are presented in unglazed biscuit porcelain vessels that invite associations with the fragmented statuary and busts of antiquity.
Alessandro Brun and Ricardo Tedeschi originally established Masque in 2010. The two young men share a deep bond fuelled by the desire to discover the world, a love of art, design and music, and a special affinity for exquisite fragrances. Their love of perfumes inevitably led them to Grasse in southern France. There and elsewhere, the two honed their insight into the perfumer’s craft over many years. Brun and Tedeschi launched their own fragrance line Masque Milano in 2013. Each scent in a collection now numbering ten was created in collaboration with a different nose from the new generation of top talents. Each fragrance is thus a stand-alone creation that speaks its very own unique olfactory language.
The creative roots of Australian Designer Naomi Goodsir lie in millinery. After earning her degree in fashion design in Sidney and apprenticing under a close protégé of Elsa Schiaparelli, Naomi turned her talents exclusively to hat making. For over ten years she worked as a milliner, designing and producing inventive one-off pieces, strictly in keeping with the tradition of the trade.
In 2008, she broadened her scope of creative production to include handbags and accessories for women and men in search of exclusive offerings in an alternative design style. In the meantime, Naomi Goodsir has launched her first five perfumes – as unique, expressive and exclusive as her signature hats, bags and accessories.
Alchemy is an enduring chemical-philosophical tradition going back to antiquity. Master alchemists always saw their practice as the gateway to a deeper realm of wisdom. In fact, without alchemy perfumes as we know them would never have come to be, because this ancient school knew the art of transforming raw materials into a purer, more perfect and sublime form. The brand Kémi interprets this by using rare natural raw ingredients and a distinctive distillation technique to create unique fragrances.
The brand Kémi is centered on a famed aromatic ingredient: oud, a resinous extract of the aquilaria tree. The raw resinous material originates in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. This very individual odorant is especially coveted in Middle Eastern countries, where it is often used in its pure and most concentrated form, an essential oil called oud attar. Oud is associated with Oriental fragrance culture like no other substance. Immerse yourself in the mysterious, enticing world of the Orient.
The fragrance house Maître Parfumeur et Gantier was founded in 1988 by influential French perfumer Jean-Francois Laporte. The passionate olfactory artist passed away in 2011, but his brand lives on, and continues to find its inspiration in classic 17th century French perfumery.
The fragrances are notable for their strong expression of both tradition and modernity. Bold, distinctive, and particularly rare ingredients lend each scent creation its especially spirited and inimitable character. The creator was enthralled by the world of opera and Baroque aesthetics, and travelled extensively in far-flung corners of the earth. All of these elements provided inspiration that made an indelible mark on Laporte’s perfume artistry. The unique fragrance signature of this great master is a legacy that will garner an enthusiastic response for a long time to come.
Ramon Monegal is one of Spain’s most influential perfumers. A fourth-generation descendent of the family that laid the foundation stone for the fragrance house Myrurgia, he was virtually fed the affinity for the art with his mother’s milk. From 1972 to 1985, he learned his trade at the big fragrance producing companies, including Firmenich, Roure Bertrand and IFF. A true master of his métier, in 2009 the time was ripe for Ramon Monegal to found his own firm. In composing a fragrance Monegal, of course, takes his cues from nature, but his passion for literature is the real inspiration behind the brand’s scents. They tell of the richness of prose and the pithiness of poetry; words are translated into fragrance notes, phrases into accords: the finished composition is a retelling of the tale. Like a good book, these olfactory nods to great literature offer a tantalizing escape from the daily routine, captivate us and sweep us off on a journey through time and space.
Since 1760, when James Henry Creed established The House of Creed in London, the perfumer’s craft has been handed down in the company “from father to son”. CREED is now one of the world’s oldest fragrance houses. After its founding in 1760, the London firm established a solid reputation as suppliers to the English court before officially relocating to Paris in 1854. Eager to have her favorite perfume house closer to her own court the French empress of the day, Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, was the driving force behind the move. In former times, owning one’s own fragrance was the exclusive preserve of privileged individuals, including, of course, royalty. From the beginning, Creed’s order books were a who’s who of the social elite, and this traditional house still counts kings, princes and A-list celebrities among its illustrious customer base.The crowned heads and film deities alike were standard bearers for fine fragrances. Legends of the silver screen, such as Marlene Dietrich, Cary Grant and Gary Cooper had brought the French perfume tradition to Hollywood early on. Later fans Creed aficionados include Frank Sinatra, Paul Newman, Robert Redford, David Bowie and Madonna.
ORTO PARISI is a fragrance project by Alessandro Gualtieri. “The parts of the body that carry more smell are those where more soul is collected” he says in his ‘manifesto’, which continues: “The strong smells have become unpleasant to us because the excess of soul is intolerable to the extent that our innate animalism is repressed and isolated from civilization.”
Gualtieri describes the ORTO PARISI collection as his garden, which he has planted fertilized, cultivated – and from which he now harvests. ORTO PARISI invites us to experience our body as a garden, its smells the true mirror of our soul.
by Cécile Zarokian
From hunting down the world’s best scents to creating original olfactory wonders. That is the founding story of BIJON in a sentence. Instead of sleuthing exquisite scents for others, BIJON set the goal of creating its own. Changing sides was a process of learning-by- doing. The success of Aura Sublime, the first fragrance in the line, is proof that the arduous journey was worth it. The BIJON recipe for success includes, among other things, the use of high-quality essences and raw materials coupled with the freedom of expression afforded the perfumers in their creative work. Cécile Zarokian is the creator of all three of the inaugural fragrances. BIJON departs from familiar fragrance concepts following an individual inspiration that gives rise to unique and convincing perfume compositions. The elegant, minimalist design reflects the BIJON philosophy: the scent is the star.
by Alberto Morillas
The story of Mizensir began in 1999 with a very special room scent collection: hand made fragrance candles and room sprays that set new standards for superior quality in this segment. In years that followed, the exclusive collection was extended to include a line of fragrances. Each of these creations was composed by master perfumer Alberto Morillas himself. For over three decades, Alberto Morillas has kept a large, loyal following of aficionados around the globe coming back for more with his fragrance bestsellers, some of them selling in the multi-millions. Legendary greats including Must de Cartier, Aqua di Giò, Miracle, CK One, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue and Eternity for Men ensure him a place among the Titans of perfumery. Morillas’s creations for his own brand MIZENSIR give us insight into his very personal approach to the art. With the master’s Midas touch, exotic and extremely rare aromas combine with classic, familiar odorant essences to become sublime objects of desire. The scents from Mizensir possess surprising individuality, subtlety and shrewd sophistication, offering a truly extraordinary experience of perfume pleasure.
JUL ET MAD
The magical encounter of a man and a woman on the streets of Paris was the spark that ignited the inspiration for this emotional fragrance line: a meeting of two cultures, two continents, two passions, two souls – a love story in scent. Each creation in the collection is a distinctive, stand-alone artwork that conveys the ardor of the most precious moments in this fortuitous “histoire d’amour”. Jul and Mad, the brand founders and protagonists of its story, are the sole authors of the collection concept and design. Jul et Mad celebrates the art of French perfumery with a clear focus on the perfumer’s craft. The resulting “perfumes without compromise” are scents of mysterious depth and a new dimension in sensuality – to try them is to be scintillated and seduced.
Son Venin is a new, Norwegian perfume house based in Oslo. Here, a respectful, discreet approach gives rise to experimental, intimate perfumes that fuse a Continental feeling with their own Scandinavian background. Son Venin is adept at uniting sensuous experience and visual perception. The search for the best raw materials took Son Venin from Norway to the south of France, where they have worked with some of the most experienced and accomplished noses of our time. The result is a fragrance collection of inimitable style, with a character and presentation that clearly reflects its makers’ Scandinavian roots.
Exclusive Room Scents
The story of Mizensir began in 1999 in Geneva. Famed perfumer Alberto Morillas, renowned for his many iconic creations, decided to create a line of exceptional home fragrances - scented candles and room scents – together with his wife Claudine. Alberto Morillas is truly a master of his craft and clearly one of the most successful. After almost forty years in the trade, he still manages to surprise fragrance aficionados the world over with distinctive new perfume creations. With his own brand Mizensir Morillas has now turned his expertise and acute sensibilities to the task of developing exquisite and unusual home fragrance applications. Each candles is handmade, the mineral-rich wax poured by hand around a cotton wick. Each extremely elegant vessel is precision-designed to ensure optimal scent dispersion within a room. The Mizensir creations give interior spaces a special signature atmosphere.
For Frenchwoman Martine Denisot creating her own fragrance line was a luxurious dream come true. Every Pour Toujours scent has a personal point of departure, expressing one of Desinot’s own treasured reminiscences, olfactory passions and fragrance favorites. Her collection is a journey back in time: an outing in the countryside, a shady spot in her grandparent’s garden. The happy days of her childhood come alive in her scents, spiriting us off to a world of enchantment. Martine Denisot perfected her craft under the tutelage of master perfumer Jacques Polge of Chanel. He accompanied Desinot on the journey of her first own designs, helping to shape her unmistakable style. Today, Martine Denisot is one of the acknowledged virtuosos of the French fragrance world. Her formulas are short and precise, her style elegant and decidedly Francophile. She composes accords and harmonies to perfection, deftly uniting joie de vivre, sensuality and pure magic. Pour Toujours perfumes are captivating embodiments of French charm and style.
by YS Uzac
This fragrance revolves around a rare and intriguing substance that has fascinated humankind for centuries. Ambergris is a material of mythological proportions that has lost none of its intrigue across the ages. Way back in the 15th century, ambergris was already being traded in Europe, a rarity literally worth its weight in gold. Fresh ambergris is white and soft and has a rather unpleasant smell. Only after years, or even decades, of exposure to air, light and salt water does the substance take on its characteristic solid consistency and attractive scent. Its fragrance notes are described as dry-woody, balsamic and tobacco-like, with a slightly animalistic character. Acclaimed perfumer Vincent Micotti has a master hand with this substance: his Midas touch has given rise to a true masterpiece. Finest nuances of oud and precious frankincense, exotic resins and subtle leather accords caress and seduce our senses. Noble and refined, the fragrance Ambre Bleue displays a captivating combination of individuality, subtlety and sophistication.
by Maurice Roucel
Maurice Roucel discovered his passion for fine fragrances back in the 1970s, while working as a chemist at Chanel. He went on to train as a perfumer with Henri Robert and took a special interest in breaking down every raw ingredient into its chemical and aesthetic constituent parts, reducing it to its true essence. Roucel is a researcher, and the raw materials his greatest source of inspiration. That special approach has given rise to a unique, unmistakable perfume language, notable for its individuality, subtlety and sophistication. The signature fragrance Shalini, created for the designer of the same name to compliment her eponymous luxury line, is a subtle composition of white blooms, a bouquet including tiaré, frangipani, neroli and exotic tuberose based on the profundity and mystery of white musk and sandalwood. The scent softly and tenderly envelops its wearer in an evocative, intoxicating magic.
MONA DI ORIO
Mona di Orio was a master of her craft, an extraordinarily gifted bright star in the olfactory firmament. Sadly, in 2011 di Orio died during a surgical procedure, at the age of just 42. The native Frenchwoman, daughter of a Spanish mother and an Italian father, grew up in the secluded Alpine city of Annecy in Département Haute-Savoie. From an early age, Mona showed an ardent enthusiasm for art and literature. These passions would have a major influence on her short life. In 1987 she met perfumer Edmond Roudnitska in Grasse, the fragrance-making Mecca in the South of France. The meeting would change her life irrevocably. Obsessed by the world of the evanescent elixirs she developed an ardent passion for the work with precious scents, essences and absolutes. Fragrance virtuoso Edmond Roudnitska and Mona di Orio became master and disciple and worked together closely for 15 years.
Nature was Mona di Orio’s role model, her inspiration, and the tool of her trade. Her formulations are distillations of the radiance of light. She worked with an emphatic contrast of light and shadow, transferring the famous Chiaroscuro painting style from the Baroque and Renaissance periods to the realm of scent. Sparkling head notes, sensuous reflections in the heart note, and mysterious, dramatic base notes became her personal trademark. Mona di Orio’s compositions bear the magic of eternity. Today, the Mona di Orio legacy is perpetuated by her business partner Jeroen Oude Sogtoen and perfumer Frederik Dalman.
A Long Time Ago In Argentina
In 19th century Argentina, two very different families crossed paths. Their meeting resulted in a major contribution to leading Argentina into a modern future. In 1862, General Bartolomé Mitre became the first president of the independent, freshly reunited Argentina. He sought investors to build a railway line connecting the interior with the capital, Buenos Aires. He found his backers in Charles and Walter Morrison, who put up funds for the railway that would support the journey of the young country on its way to industrialization.140 years later, two of their descendants met and fell in love: Marina Sersale, great-great-granddaughter of James Morrison, a documentary filmmaker who grew up in Italy and England, and Sebastián Alvarez Murena, the great-great-grandson of Bartolomé Mitre, who grew up in his native Argentina, but works as a journalist in Italy. When they learned of the shared history of their families – a union between them, so to speak, already formed so long ago – the couple were inspired to create a fragrance collection based on the extraordinary story. Launched in 2012, ALTAIA – an acronym of A Long Time Ago In Argentina – is the expression of Marina and Sebastian’s love of artistic perfumes and the stories they tell.
Vietnam-born Phuong Dang received a degree in Fine Arts from London’s acclaimed Goldsmith University. Her artwork immediately attracted attention and was soon being shown around the world.
Phuong Dang has always been intrigued by the magical powers of fragrance. In her impressive career as an artist she expressed her own message in a wide range of media, from video to painting to photography. In creating the perfume line for her latest project Liquid Emotions she arrived at a very intimate, sensuous, almost extra-sensory level of personal expression.
For Phuong Dang, fragrances are the ultimate mystery: they not only allow to connect with our past, but also bring us more deeply in touch with our present emotions and our dreams for the future. Scents influence us; affect our thoughts and feelings.
Created in collaboration with master perfumers Bertrand Duchaufour and Mark Buxton, Liquid Emotions is a dramatic proposal that flatters the senses, seduces and captives us in an enchanting fashion.
by Antonio Gardoni
Italian architect and designer Antonio Gardoni, born in Brescia, beguiles with his unusual fragrance creations, which transport us through space and time. In Gordoni’s Bogue-Fumoir, an idiosyncratic “creative grotto” – a fantastical potpourri of perfumery artifacts, bric-a-brac and rare raw materials – woods, resins, roots and exotic plants are stored along with materials such as stone and metals. This cabinet of curiosities is the fruit of Gardoni’s extensive travels and provides the basis for his work to establish a new perception of fragrance. The Bogue scents are developed at night, when the sounds and smells of the day recede, leaving a quiet space for experiments. Antonio Gardoni uses ancient techniques and modern intuition to create contemporary fragrances. In his career as an architect and designer he learned to build in layers and to think in subtraction. Gordoni sees his perfumes as rooms, each with its own mood, texture, light and colors, just waiting to be explored.
THE BEAUTIFUL MIND SERIES
by Geza Schön
What happens when many extremely divirgent talents collide? The fragrance collection Beautiful Mind Series is the answer. The unique line is the result of perfumer Geza Schön’s collaboration with various people with very special, highly developed talents, which she translates into scent. Intelligence & Fantasy is the result of the work with memory champion and trainer Christiane Stenger. Prima ballerina Polina Semionova inspired Geza Schön to a second fragrance Precision & Grace.
It is a vast and varied portfolio of fragrance creations with one thing in common. They all spring form the same inexhaustible source: the visionary imagination of Serge Lutens. Every scent that bears his name was developed entirely by the master himself – from the initial idea to the construction concept to the finished fragrance. He even designs the flacons: beautifully streamlined bottles with an elegant cap or atomizer that reflects the exceptional quality of the precious liquid within. Serge Lutens is a pioneer in the world of perfume artistry. Growing up in Lille, northern France, was a formative influence on his relationship to fragrance. The enticing aromas of the Levant were constant companions as he walked down the Rue Tournai to school. It was a very different type of Lille street: many North African immigrants had settled there early on. The foreign smells, the special atmosphere and air of mystery fascinated young Serge from the start. After a long, varied and illustrious international career and extensive travel, he is now based in Marrakesh, where he has lived and worked for many years. Serge Lutens fragrances exude an exotic magic, enticing us to enter a world of mysticism and spirituality.
COMING SOON AT SPITZENHAUS
Sara Carner founded Carner Barcelona in 2010 based on the desire to capture the intoxicating atmosphere of her Catalonian hometown as a sensuous adventure in scent. Carner Barcelona is a collection of exquisite perfumes made of the finest ingredients and manufactured entirely in Barcelona by master perfumers and true artisans using time-honored, traditional techniques. Carner Barcelona is absolutely committed to the responsible use of natural resources: the raw materials used in the fragrances are all renewable and sourced according to fair trade conditions. Sara Carner finds inspiration in the meaningful yet evanescent moments of life. The scents of the native Catalan embody the spirit of Barcelona – its Mediterranean soul, lively squares and the famous bustling tree-lined Las Ramblas. The fragrances tell stories of longing and true emotions, of memories and extraordinary encounters. Carner Barcelona perfumes are for individualists who can afford the luxury of being unique.
A Fragrant Journey to the Most Beautiful Places on Earth
An enchanting perfume appears like a mirage before your eyes, inviting you to experience the beauty of the world in an unforgettable scent. Immerse yourself in the tale of a couple on their nomadic travels to the fragrant lands of Eutopie – “the place of the good”. Eutopie is a story told in episodic installments, capturing the aromas of exotic cultures, interpreted with a whiff of French elegance. Elodie Pollet, head perfumer of Eutopie, has lived and worked in numerous countries throughout the world, returning with the many impressions that inspire her to the distinctive perfume compositions in the wide-ranging line. The brand’s unisex scents thus reflect the diverse cultures and habitats of Europe, Asia and the Middle East, interpreting life in far-flung “Utopian” spots as sensuous scents.
BOTTEGA PROFUMIERA speaks of the Roman art of perfumery and an elegant, particularly Italian lifestyle. Its founder Maurizio Lembo has created a fragrance collection that allows us to share rich and captivating moments of his own life story. Lembo discovered his love of scents early on, as a young boy exploring his father’s perfumery. Later on, he realized his vocation was not behind the counter, selling his beloved fragrances. He wanted to share his personal passion with others directly, by creating his own perfumes. Lembo’s inspiration is life itself, an endless wealth of experiences: love; a visit to an art exhibition; thoughts of friends; happy childhood memories; the scent of a garden. But his creations are also often the result of the pure virtuoso experimentation of a master at work with the essences he adores. BOTTEGA PROFUMIERA is the expression of refined Italian craftsmanship. Maurizio Lembo has created a timeless fragrance style notable for exceptional elegance and a subtle sense of luxury defined by perfume artistry, the careful selection of aromatic substances and the traditional production process in Rome.
The author of exceptional olfactory creations that have consistently enthralled the fragrance world for over 40 years, Rosendo Mateu is one of the major protagonists on the perfumery scene. As house perfumer for the acclaimed Spanish fragrance house Puig he developed countless bestsellers for brands such as Paco Rabanne, Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci, Ermenegildo Zegna, Quorum and Etienne Aigner.
After decades of creative production for major international brands, Mateu now devotes a large share of his professional energy to the realm of custom-made perfume. In 2010, he became one of the few European perfumers to be awarded the honorary title Maître Parfumeur .
In 2017, Rosendo Mateu set himself a new challenging goal: to create his own eponymous fragrance label. His collection Rosendo Mateu Olfactive Expressions Barcelona quickly confirmed the maître’s status as one of world’s best perfumers. Each fragrance is an olfactory masterpiece by a creator who has devoted almost his entire life to the world of scent.
Brand founders Leo Gibbon and Tomi Ahmed met for the first time in 2016 in London. The two had no idea at the time that their common passion for fragrances would go on to inspire them to launch their own perfume project. They were both fascinated by the associative power of scents and their ability to trigger memory and stimulate the imagination. This is the starting point of their Edition One, which takes its cues from “nostalgic recollections”, breathing new life into the past. Each scent in the series tells its own story. Taken together, the fragrance trio expresses: “who we are now” and “where we come from”, exploring the inspirations and companions that have been a part of our journey.
The Parisian niche house Perfums DUSITA draws its inspiration from the rich literary work of acclaimed Thai poet Montri Umavijani (1941-2006). In exquisite fragrance creations, his daughter Pissara “Ploi” Umavijani beautifully blends traditional French haute parfumerie with the elegance and rich cultural and religious heritage of the former kingdom of Siam. Dusita is a Thai word referring to a heavenly paradise of pure bliss and contentment.
The individual scent concepts evoke realms of earthly paradise. In ISSARA: the “joy of freedom and tranquility”; in MELODIE DE L’AMOUR: the “sweet bliss and magic of love”; and in UODH INFINI: the “euphoria of adventure and discovery”. Two new scents, LE SILLAGE BLANC and LA DOUCEUR DE SIAM, joined the collection in Spring 2017.
EXCLUSIVES BY SERGE LUTENS
“Creation should know no bounds”, so says beauty industry genius Serge Lutens. That, he says, “applies even more to Section d’Or, which I decided to take beyond the reasonable. I took an idea to its very limits.” The perfume collection Section d’Or is the product of many years of collaboration between Lutens and master perfumer Christopher Sheldrake. It offers a whole new sensory experience, transcendent and meditative: body and mind become one, igniting a mysterious fire of inexplicable perceptions. Six new scents, all in perfume concentration, await discovery. Enigmatic names, such as Cannibale, Cracheuse de Flammes, L’Haleine des Dieux, Renard Constrictor, Sidi Bel-Abbes, L’Incendiaire, Veilleur de Nuit and Bourreau des Fleurs work their ominous magic, inviting us to surrender to their fatal allure.
Created by chemist Michael Knudsen, a Swedish immigrant to the USA, this milestone mens’ Cologne was launched 1957 in New York. Uncompromisingly masculine from the start, it took the still quite fragrance-skeptical men’s market by storm. Purely hand-manufactured and bottled, each flacon is truly one-of-a-kind.
Resins, frankincense and spices are the main themes of the scent. Back in the day, Knudsen himself collected the tiny stones along the East Coast shoreline that he then personally added to each bottle. These eponymous pieces of gravel contribute far more than just a visual effect to the product packaging. In fact, they give the cologne its warm color and slightly metallic fragrance note. The highly elaborate and personal production process meant that each bottling run was a limited edition, and there was always a long waiting list of those eager for the chance to envelop themselves in the scent.
Extinct since Knudsen’s death in his late nineties – he’d continued to control production and personally select the gravel stones till the end - the scent was revived in 2018 as: Gravel - A Man’s Cologne. Zesty citrus top notes invigorate while woodsy, balsamic notes combine with spices, a bit of incense and some resin to round off the effect. Frankincense lends the olfactory artwork its mystical depth. The precise concept behind the scent, however, remains a well-guarded secret.
DUSITA Oudh Infini / Melodie de l‘Amour / Issara / Sillage Blanc / La Douceur de Siam / Erawan / Fleur de Lalita HUMIECKI & GRAEF Eau Radieuse / Bosque / Geste / Clemency / Candour / Askew / Multiple Rouge / Blask / Skarb MEO FUSCIUNI Little Song / Odor 93 / L’Oblio / Narcotico / Luce / Notturno / Rites de Passage / Shukran / Ciavuri d’Amuri MIN NEW YORK Coda / Moon Dust / Long Board / Onsen / Plush / Dune Road / Chef’s Table / Momento / Dahab / Ad Lumen / Shaman / Magic Circus / Old School Bench / Barrel / Forever Now / The Botanist / Voodoo MONA DI ORIO Santal Nabatea / Lux / Oudh Osmanthus / Myrrh Casati / Bohea Bohème / Nuit Noir / Violette Fumée / Eau Absolue / Vetyver / Vanille / Tubéreuse / Musc / Ambre / Rose Etoile de Hollande / Cuir / Suède de Suéde / Dojima NAOMI GOODSIR / Bois d’Ascèse / Cuir Velours / Iris Cendre / Or de Serail / Nuit de Bakélite NASOMATTO Nudiflorum / Blamage / Black Afgano / Baraonda / Pardon / Duro / China White / Absinth / Narcotic Venus / Silver Musk / Hindu Grass NISHANE Ambra Calabria / Afrika Olifant / Boszphorusz / Wulong Chà / Pasion Choco / Munegu / Spice Bazaar / Patchuli Kozha / Tuberoza / Sultan Vetiver / Suède et Safran / Musiqa Oud / Hundred Silent Ways / Fan your Flames / Hacivat / Zenne / Karagoz ORTO PARISI Terroni / Bergamask / Boccanera / Brutus / Seminalis / Stercus / Viride QUARTANA Poppy Soma / Digitalis / Bloodflower / Hemlock / Midnight Datura / Venetian Belladonna / Lily oft he Valley / Mandrake / Wolfsbane UNUM Rosa Nigra / Symphonie Passion / Ennui Noir / Lavs / Opus 1144 / Pleinjeu / Voix Humaine / Contre Bombarde YS UZAC September Country / Air / Théros / Ambre Bleu / Ballon de Soie / Oud Anka / Dragon Tatoo / Sacre du Printemps / Air 16 / Théros / Lale / Métabole / Pohadka / Monodie / Bom Incense / Bom Jasmine / Satin Doll / Immortal Beloved / Lights and Shadows FUEGUIA Xocoatl / La Joven Noche / Ambar de los Andes / La Cautiva / Flores Negras / Pampa Seca / Mbucuruya / Pulperia / Darwin / Elogio de la Sombra / Misiones / Quilombo / Biblioteca de Babel / Tinta Roja / Amalia / Candido Lopes / Agua Magnoliana / Agua de Gardenia / Malena / Entre Rios / Caoba / Thays / Ballena de la Pampa / Equation / Cactus Azul / Halo Lunar / Luz sin Freno / Alguien Suena / Iberà / Malabrigo / Juan Manuel / Don Giovanni / Sudestada / Hornero / Metafora / Conquista / Komorebi / Asagiri / Zonda / El Dorado / Ett Hem / Amalia Gourmand / Humboldt / Beagle / Laberinto / Muskara Vetivera / Muskara Phero J / Muskara Geranium / Muskara Jasmin / Muskara Boswelia / Muskara Bursera / Muskara Rosa / Muskara Osmanthus / Muskara Santalum / Muskara Pogostemon AEDES DE VENUSTAS Musc Encensé / Palisandre d’Or / Copal Azur / Pelargonium / Iris Nazarena / Signature / Grenadilles d’Afrique / Cierge de Lune / Oeillet Bengale ALTAIA Ombu / Don’t cry for me / By any other name / Yu Son / Tubereuse Blue NOMENCLATURE Paraiso / Holy Wood / Shiso / Lumenesce / Effloresce / Adrett / Iridel / Orbital MARIA LUX Yours Truly / Yours Madly / Yours Deeply / Mogadess / Aramesh CREED Viking / Bois du Portugal / Erolfa / Tabarome / Green Irish Tweed / Royal Oud / Original Santal / Millesime Imperial / Original Vetiver / Royal Water / Silver Mountain Water / Himalaya / Virgin Island Water / Love in White / Spring Flower / Love in Black / Aventus / Aventus for her / Aqua Fiorentina / Fleurs de Gardenia / Royal Princess Oud / Fleurs de Bulgarie / Asian Green Tea / Cèdre Blanc / Aberdeen Lavender / Iris Tubereuse / Vetiver Geranium VOLNAY Etoile d’Or / Objet Céleste / Brume d’Hiver / Yapana / Perlerette / Ambre de Siam / Mimeomai GRITTI Fenice / Rialto / Giudecca / Alexandra / Lu / Alvise ALKYMIA Tempest / Solis / Aqua Regia / Layla / Luna / Aurum / Ilm / Jabir / Hayat / Kemi TERESA HELBIG Old Money / Tangier Memories / A Bulldog in the Atelier / Teresa / Georgette BOTTEGA PROFUMIERA Shardana / In Flora / Polianthes / Gourmand / Galantuomo / Rose Poudré / Mon Jardin CARNER BACELONA Megalium / Ambar del Sur / Botafumeiro / Volcano / Rose & Dragon / Black Calamus / Sandor 70`s / Latin Lover / Sweet William / Besos / El Born / Costarela / Palo Santo / Tardes / Cuirs / D600 / Rima XI RAMON MONEGAL Tristan & Isolde / Bravo / Flower Power / Cafe del Mar / La Isla Blanca / Fiesta / Monbloom / Cherry Musk / Next to me / Pure Mariposa / Flamenco / Ambra di Luna / Entre Naranjos / Mon Cuir / Impossible iris / Kiss my name / Cotton Musk / Cuirette / Agar Musk DIFFERENT COMPANY Santo Incienso / Bergamote / Sublime Balkiss / Pure Eve / Oriental Lounge / Adjatay / Sel de Vetiver / Oud Shamash / Oud for Love / Aurore Nomade / Bois d’Iris / Jasmin Nuit JUL ET MAD Fugit Amor / Mon Seul Desir / Bella Donna / Secret du Paradis Rouge / Amour de Palazzo / Stilettos on Lex / Néa / Nin-Shar / Garuda / Terasse à St. Germain / Aqua Sextius MANCERA Coco Vanille / Black Line / Lemon Line / Wild Cherry / Wild Leather / Aoud Vanille / Aoud Blu Notes / Roses Jasmine / Aoud Café / Black Prestigium / Roses Greedy / Roses & Chocolate / Roses Vanille ATELIER COLOGNE Poivre Electrique / Philtre Ceylan / Mimosa Indigo / Encens Jinhae / Tobacco Nuit / Clémentine California / Oolan Infini / Bois Blond / Grand Néroli / Mistral Patchouli / Orange Sanguine / Jasmin Angélique / Vanille Insensée / Trèfle Pur / Bergamote Soleil / Vetiver Fatal / Cedrat Enivrant MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER Oud Extravagant / Ambre Mythique / Vocalise / Bahiana / Secret Datura / Centaure / Ambre Précieux / Eau pour le Jeune Homme / Soie Rouge / Garrigue / Eau de Camelia / Fleurs des Comores / Grain de Plasir / Eau de Gantier / Roses Muskissime / Bois de Turquie / Or des Indes / Cuir Fetiche / Rose Opulent / Santal Noble POUR TOUJOURS Vers Dharamsala / Boule de Gomme / Tudo Bem / Pyrus / Graines / Bootilicious / Khamsin BEAUFORT Iron Duke / Vi et Armis / Fathom V, Tonnerre / Lignum Vitae / Cœur de Noir DS&DURGA Missisipi Medicine / Cowboy Grass / Bowmakers / Siberian Snow / Coriander / Freetrapper / Burning Barbershop / Radio Bombay / White Peacock Lily / Rose Atlantic / Italian Citrus / El Cosmico / Vio-Volta / Amber Teutonic MIRKO BUFFINI Moa / Mu / Saba / Ki / OG / Gods / Kirk / Haecceitas / No.31 / Moxi / Haiku / Klito / La Chute d’Eau MALIN+GOETZ Dark Rum / Citron Vert / Moroccan Fig JULISIS L’Elexir du Jour / L’Elexir d’Amour BOGUE Mem / Maai / Oe HYLNDS Foxglove / Pale Grey Mountain - Small Black Lake / Isle Ryder / Bitter Rose - Broken Spear / Spirit of the Glen SERGE LUTENS Féminité du Bois / Ambre Sultan / Fleurs d’Oranger / La Fille de Berlin / Chergui / Nuit de Cellophane / Un Bois Vanille / Five o’clock au Gingembre / Datura Noir / Clair de Musc / Santal Majuscule / L’Orphelin / La Religieuse / Vetiver Oriental / La Vierge de Fer / Baptême du Feu / Dent de Lait / L’Eau / L’Eau Froide / Laine de Verre / L’Eau de Paille ESCENTRIC MOLECULE Escentric 01 / Molecule 01 / Escentric 02 / Molecule 02 / Escentric 03 / Molecule 03 / Escentric 04 / Molecule 04 / MIZENSIR Very Musk / Celebes Wood / Lovely Alba / Cologne du Maté / Cœur de Cologne / Cologne du Figuier / Poudre d’Or / Epine de Rose / Tender Oud / Elixir de Musc / Très Chere / Rose Exaltante / Original Oud / Bois Iridescent / Little Bianca / Perfect Oud / Bois de Mysore / Ideal Oud / Alma de Rosario / Eau de Gingembre / Edition de Veronique / L’Envers du Paradis / L’Ombre du Lys / Luxury / Musc Eternel / Mythique Vetiver / Sweet Praline / White Neroli WIENERBLUT Klubwasser / Freudian Wood / Nord du Nord / Sale Marino / Ex Voto / Hesperia / Palais Nizam / Volkamaria / The Uncanny MARC ANTOINE BARROIS B683 AFFINESSENCE Vanilla-Benzoin / Sandalwood-Basmati / Cedar-Iris / Patchouly-Agarwood / Leather-Turmeric / Musk-Ambergris PAUL KLEE Lights and Shadows TEODOR CURRENTZIS September Country / Théros / Air 16 DS & DURGA Debaser / Rose Atlantic / White Peacock Lily / Radio Bombay / Bowmakers / Italian Citrus / Coriander / Freetrapper / Cowboy Grass / Burning Barbershop / Missisipi Medicine / Vio-Volta / El Cosmico / Durga / I don’t know what EUTOPIE No. 1 / No. 2 / No. 3 / No. 4 / No. 6 / No. 7 / No. 8 / No. 9 / No. 10 / No. 11 SHALINI Amorem Rose / Shalini / Jardin Nocture VIOLET Tanagra / Pourpre d’Automne / Sketch / Un Air d’Apogée L’ORCHESTRE Flamenco Neroli / Thé Darbouka / Rose Trombone / Encens Asakusa / Cuir Cora REGIMES DES FLEURS Falling Trees / Gold Leaves / Willows / Cacti / Glass Blooms ROSENDO MATEU No.1 Tea Leaves & Sandalwood / No.2 Wood & Suede Leather / No.3 Néroli & White Musk / No.4 Saffron & Oud / No.5 Amber & Musk OMOROVICZA Bagatelle de Gabrielle BIJON Aura Sublime / Menthe Fraiche / Aeom MARK BUXTON Black Angel / Devil in Disguise / Spiritual Healing / Dreaming with Ghosts / Wood & Absinth / Emotional Drop / Message in a Perfume / A day in my Life THE BEAUTIFUL MIND SERIES Intelligence & Fantasy / Precision & Grace PARFUMS D’ELMAR Elixir d’Amour / Sweet Temptation / Dark Desire / SOUS LE MANTEAU Poudre Impériale / Fontaine Royale / Cuir d’Orient / Essence du Sérail / Vapeurs Diablotines ILUVO Gilot / Fonteyn / Soigné GRATTE CIEL by SERGE LUTENS Cuir Mauresque / Fille en Aiguilles / Fumerie Turque / Muscs Koublai Khan / L’Innommable / Serge Noir / Chène / Louve / Tubereuse Criminelle / Borneo 1834 / De Profundis MASQUE MILANO Terralba / Montecristo / Russian Tea / Times Square / Luci ed Ombre / Mandala / L’Attesa / Romanza / Tango / Hemingway LA SECTION D’OR by SERGE LUTENS L’Incendiaire / Cannibale / Cracheuse de Flammes / L’Haleine des Dieux / Renard Constrictor / Sidi Bel-Abbes / Veilleur de Nuit / Bourreau des Fleurs / SON VENIN Le Voleur / Post Hume / Pur 01 / Pur 02 / Code 30 _07 / Code 09_05 PHUONG DANG Obscure Oud / Untamed Oud / The Calling / Craving / Believing / Vermillon Promise / Cryptic / Leather Up / Liquid Red / Raw Secret / Déjà Vu / Artist GRAVEL Gravel / MAD ET LEN Apocalypstick / Petits Papiers / Vetyver Bucolique / Black Uddu / Fuego Flores / Terre Noire / Red Musk / Graphite / Spirituelle / Das Parfum / Ambre Decadent / Blue in Musc