“olfactory ode to summer”
The fragrance Théros is based on an unusually large dose of the rare and very costly genuine Vietnamese Kyara oud oil, which is nothing like the sort of oud found in countless mainstream scents. When star conductor Teodor Currentzis commissioned perfumer Vincent Micotti/YS Uzac to compose a fragrance “like a romantic summer scenery”, he had something very specific in mind. Teodor Currentzis’ personal interpretation of summer and sun-drenched sand can be experienced on multiple levels in this creation. Like an alchemical mystery, oud accords blend with true ambergis, patchouli and a warm sand accord. The perfectly pitched combination fine-tunes our perception, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the sensuous seaside joys of summer.
“From Vienna, with Love”
The term “Wiener Blut” (lit. Viennese blood) was coined in 1873. It describes the “unique blend of archness and hedonism attributed to the Viennese” – the high society of fin-de-siècle imperial Vienna in particular. Alexander Lauber, the creative force behind the brand, went rummaging in the chronicles of history, dusting off tales of prominent Viennese players and anecdotes of the day, taking us back in time to the captivating scenes of a magnificent era. Alexander Lauber describes himself as something of a fragrance forensic scientist. He trawls archives, libraries and auctions rooting out literature about perfumes, their origins and their pervasive presence in social history. Lauber’s findings inspire his own olfactory creations. WienerBlut products are made exclusively at the company’s own manufacturing facility. Ingredients are always select. Extremely rare, superior quality raw materials are used whenever available. Packaging components are handcrafted and, in a finishing touch of old world elegance, the flacons are filled and labeled by hand as well.
Since 1760, when James Henry Creed established The House of Creed in London, the perfumer’s craft has been handed down in the company “from father to son”. CREED is now one of the world’s oldest fragrance houses. After its founding in 1760, the London firm established a solid reputation as suppliers to the English court before officially relocating to Paris in 1854. Eager to have her favorite perfume house closer to her own court the French empress of the day, Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, was the driving force behind the move. In former times, owning one’s own fragrance was the exclusive preserve of privileged individuals, including, of course, royalty. From the beginning, Creed’s order books were a who’s who of the social elite, and this traditional house still counts kings, princes and A-list celebrities among its illustrious customer base.The crowned heads and film deities alike were standard bearers for fine fragrances. Legends of the silver screen, such as Marlene Dietrich, Cary Grant and Gary Cooper had brought the French perfume tradition to Hollywood early on. Later fans Creed aficionados include Frank Sinatra, Paul Newman, Robert Redford, David Bowie and Madonna.
MONA DI ORIO
Mona di Orio was a master of her craft, an extraordinarily gifted bright star in the olfactory firmament. Sadly, in 2011 di Orio died during a surgical procedure, at the age of just 42. The native Frenchwoman, daughter of a Spanish mother and an Italian father, grew up in the secluded Alpine city of Annecy in Département Haute-Savoie. From an early age, Mona showed an ardent enthusiasm for art and literature. These passions would have a major influence on her short life. In 1987 she met perfumer Edmond Roudnitska in Grasse, the fragrance-making Mecca in the South of France. The meeting would change her life irrevocably. Obsessed by the world of the evanescent elixirs she developed an ardent passion for the work with precious scents, essences and absolutes. Fragrance virtuoso Edmond Roudnitska and Mona di Orio became master and disciple and worked together closely for 15 years.
Nature was Mona di Orio’s role model, her inspiration, and the tool of her trade. Her formulations are distillations of the radiance of light. She worked with an emphatic contrast of light and shadow, transferring the famous Chiaroscuro painting style from the Baroque and Renaissance periods to the realm of scent. Sparkling head notes, sensuous reflections in the heart note, and mysterious, dramatic base notes became her personal trademark. Mona di Orio’s compositions bear the magic of eternity. Today, the Mona di Orio legacy is perpetuated by her business partner Jeroen Oude Sogtoen and perfumer Frederik Dalman.
The Parisian niche house Perfums DUSITA draws its inspiration from the rich literary work of acclaimed Thai poet Montri Umavijani (1941-2006). In exquisite fragrance creations, his daughter Pissara “Ploi” Umavijani beautifully blends traditional French haute parfumerie with the elegance and rich cultural and religious heritage of the former kingdom of Siam. Dusita is a Thai word referring to a heavenly paradise of pure bliss and contentment.
The individual scent concepts evoke realms of earthly paradise. In ISSARA: the “joy of freedom and tranquility”; in MELODIE DE L’AMOUR: the “sweet bliss and magic of love”; and in UODH INFINI: the “euphoria of adventure and discovery”. Two new scents, LE SILLAGE BLANC and LA DOUCEUR DE SIAM, joined the collection in Spring 2017.
BOTTEGA PROFUMIERA speaks of the Roman art of perfumery and an elegant, particularly Italian lifestyle. Its founder Maurizio Lembo has created a fragrance collection that allows us to share rich and captivating moments of his own life story. Lembo discovered his love of scents early on, as a young boy exploring his father’s perfumery. Later on, he realized his vocation was not behind the counter, selling his beloved fragrances. He wanted to share his personal passion with others directly, by creating his own perfumes. Lembo’s inspiration is life itself, an endless wealth of experiences: love; a visit to an art exhibition; thoughts of friends; happy childhood memories; the scent of a garden. But his creations are also often the result of the pure virtuoso experimentation of a master at work with the essences he adores. BOTTEGA PROFUMIERA is the expression of refined Italian craftsmanship. Maurizio Lembo has created a timeless fragrance style notable for exceptional elegance and a subtle sense of luxury defined by perfume artistry, the careful selection of aromatic substances and the traditional production process in Rome.
by Alberto Morillas
The story of Mizensir began in 1999 with a very special room scent collection: hand made fragrance candles and room sprays that set new standards for superior quality in this segment. In years that followed, the exclusive collection was extended to include a line of fragrances. Each of these creations was composed by master perfumer Alberto Morillas himself. For over three decades, Alberto Morillas has kept a large, loyal following of aficionados around the globe coming back for more with his fragrance bestsellers, some of them selling in the multi-millions. Legendary greats including Must de Cartier, Aqua di Giò, Miracle, CK One, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue and Eternity for Men ensure him a place among the Titans of perfumery. Morillas’s creations for his own brand MIZENSIR give us insight into his very personal approach to the art. With the master’s Midas touch, exotic and extremely rare aromas combine with classic, familiar odorant essences to become sublime objects of desire. The scents from Mizensir possess surprising individuality, subtlety and shrewd sophistication, offering a truly extraordinary experience of perfume pleasure.
The Mancera brand was created in 2008 by a group of designers and perfumers under the direction of renowned perfumer Pierre Montale. Originally intended for the Middle Eastern market the brand is designed to bridge Oriental and Occidental perfume cultures. The reason being that many fragrance lovers in a Middle Eastern cultural context are increasingly interested in Western fragrance concepts with the long-lasting, extremely charismatic power of the classic Oriental notes. With its innovative concept Mancera creates a perfect olfactory symbiosis of European and traditional Middle Eastern fragrance culture.
FUEGUIA 1833 is Julian Bedel’s passionate declaration of love to the wild, rugged beauty and biodiversity of a region that had mesmerized Charles Darwin and his travelling companions back in the 19th century: Patagonia. In 2010 the Argentinian Bedel founded FUEGIA 1833 as a tribute to this botanical treasure chest of the South American continent – for the first time uniting the indigenous plant word in a fragrance collection. Among the many FUGUIA scents, the new MUSKARA collection deserves special notice. These six new enticing fragrances all have one thing in common: an absolutely unique PHEROMON molecule at the base. Pheromones are neurotransmitters that enhance the attractiveness of the wearer vis-à-vis his or her environment. These substances have their own rhythm of motion and surround us like an invisible, magical aura. Each of these six new variations has been equipped with a carefully selected special extra element that ensures an utterly unique fragrance experience.
As uncommon as the fragrances themselves is their packaging. Each flacon is housed in a handmade little cedarwood box. FUEGIA 1833 is made for connoisseurs who seek true values and time-honored tradition.
Alchemy is an enduring chemical-philosophical tradition going back to antiquity. Master alchemists always saw their practice as the gateway to a deeper realm of wisdom. In fact, without alchemy perfumes as we know them would never have come to be, because this ancient school knew the art of transforming raw materials into a purer, more perfect and sublime form. The brand Kémi interprets this by using rare natural raw ingredients and a distinctive distillation technique to create unique fragrances.
The brand Kémi is centered on a famed aromatic ingredient: oud, a resinous extract of the aquilaria tree. The raw resinous material originates in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. This very individual odorant is especially coveted in Middle Eastern countries, where it is often used in its pure and most concentrated form, an essential oil called oud attar. Oud is associated with Oriental fragrance culture like no other substance. Immerse yourself in the mysterious, enticing world of the Orient.
MIRKO BUFFINI Firenze
Italian fragrance meets Asian minimalism. Founded in 2010, the artisanal perfume house Mirko Buffini Parfum can already boast an impressive portfolio of successes. Headquartered in Florence, the company takes up the long perfumery tradition of the city, which goes back to the Renaissance. The fragrance creations are developed according to the time-honored artistic tradition of Florentine perfumery in an in-house perfume laboratory in Florence. Many of the Mirko Buffini scents are inspired by Far-Eastern traditions, history and ancient legends, reflected in scents with names including ‘Haiku’, ‘Moxi’ and ‘Ki’. The brand does, in fact, have an especially enthusiastic following in Asia. These scents take a story and spin their own yarn out of it, skillfully combining exotic olfactory notes to create a complex and compelling composition with a minimalist design. Each of the fascinating scents develops its bouquet wonderfully on the skin. Even after several hours’ wear, Mirko Buffini perfumes present a surprisingly multi-layered array of fragrance notes.
A Fragrant Journey to the Most Beautiful Places on Earth
An enchanting perfume appears like a mirage before your eyes, inviting you to experience the beauty of the world in an unforgettable scent. Immerse yourself in the tale of a couple on their nomadic travels to the fragrant lands of Eutopie – “the place of the good”. Eutopie is a story told in episodic installments, capturing the aromas of exotic cultures, interpreted with a whiff of French elegance. Elodie Pollet, head perfumer of Eutopie, has lived and worked in numerous countries throughout the world, returning with the many impressions that inspire her to the distinctive perfume compositions in the wide-ranging line. The brand’s unisex scents thus reflect the diverse cultures and habitats of Europe, Asia and the Middle East, interpreting life in far-flung “Utopian” spots as sensuous scents.
LIGHTS AND SHADOWS
Hommage à Paul Klee
Paul Ernst Klee was a German painter and graphic designer whose wide-ranging oeuvre exhibits elements of expressionism, constructivism, cubism, primitivism and surrealism. The fragrance ‘Lights and Shadows’, created by master perfumer Vincent Micotti/YS Uzac in collaboration with descendants of Klee, is an olfactory homage to the artist. The scent reflects his eventful life, his beloved music, his journeys to foreign shores and, of course the paintings. Klee’s tireless, almost restless creative energy and enormous output has given us a unique and sublime legacy. “I am a painter”, affirmed Paul Klee in a 1914 dairy entry at the end of a trip to Tunisia. Despite his great talent as a draftsmen Klee’s journey to painting and to color was a long process of artistic self-discovery. He loved to experiment, combining a broad spectrum of artistic media, and was a visionary in more than just his visual language. With its key notes of rhubarb, fruits, powdery nights, ink, paper, shadows and fragrant wood burning, the fragrance charts the life, times and work of this great artist, full of contrast and color, vigor and poignancy, light and shadow.
For Frenchwoman Martine Denisot creating her own fragrance line was a luxurious dream come true. Every Pour Toujours scent has a personal point of departure, expressing one of Desinot’s own treasured reminiscences, olfactory passions and fragrance favorites. Her collection is a journey back in time: an outing in the countryside, a shady spot in her grandparent’s garden. The happy days of her childhood come alive in her scents, spiriting us off to a world of enchantment. Martine Denisot perfected her craft under the tutelage of master perfumer Jacques Polge of Chanel. He accompanied Desinot on the journey of her first own designs, helping to shape her unmistakable style. Today, Martine Denisot is one of the acknowledged virtuosos of the French fragrance world. Her formulas are short and precise, her style elegant and decidedly Francophile. She composes accords and harmonies to perfection, deftly uniting joie de vivre, sensuality and pure magic. Pour Toujours perfumes are captivating embodiments of French charm and style.
ORTO PARISI is a fragrance project by Alessandro Gualtieri. “The parts of the body that carry more smell are those where more soul is collected” he says in his ‘manifesto’, which continues: “The strong smells have become unpleasant to us because the excess of soul is intolerable to the extent that our innate animalism is repressed and isolated from civilization.”
Gualtieri describes the ORTO PARISI collection as his garden, which he has planted fertilized, cultivated – and from which he now harvests. ORTO PARISI invites us to experience our body as a garden, its smells the true mirror of our soul.
The collection ‘Les Potions Fatales’ explores the deceptive and fascinating aspects of nine of the most potent and infamous poisonous flowers. Over the centuries, belladonna, hemlock, digitalis and lily-of-the-valley have played a key role in not a few nefarious undertakings.
‘Les Potions Fatales’ is a fragrant foray into the turbulent history of these intriguing florals. They entice us with their fatal, beguiling charm, and hold us captive forevermore. The intoxicating, seductive series of scents reveal their unique allure at first sight: dark, disconcerting and extremely dangerous.
Many of the eponymous poisonous plants actually produce little or no aromatic substances that could be used in perfumery. So Joseph Quartana, originator of the collection concept, presented the team of nine expert perfumers from the company Symrise with a daunting mission: to portray the essence and character of these flowers in fragrance.
Teresa developed a passion for fashion very early on. She grew up in her mother’s own fashion atelier, surrounded by textiles, needles and thread. She says that every single day, her mother taught her that much of the beauty of a great fashion creation lies in what you don’t immediately see. That explains why fashion designer Teresa Helbig is such a perfectionist today, with an obsession for painstaking detail reflected in the handcrafted finishing of each of her designs. Her fashion atelier is situated in the heart of Barcelona, a city of countless contrasts that never ceases to stimulate and inspire. Teresa Helbig imbued her fragrance collection with the same spirit. The charismatic perfumes were created according to the highest standards of quality and artisan mastery. They embody subtly provocative elegance and thoroughly persuasive sophistication.
Ramon Monegal is one of Spain’s most influential perfumers. A fourth-generation descendent of the family that laid the foundation stone for the fragrance house Myrurgia, he was virtually fed the affinity for the art with his mother’s milk. From 1972 to 1985, he learned his trade at the big fragrance producing companies, including Firmenich, Roure Bertrand and IFF. A true master of his métier, in 2009 the time was ripe for Ramon Monegal to found his own firm. In composing a fragrance Monegal, of course, takes his cues from nature, but his passion for literature is the real inspiration behind the brand’s scents. They tell of the richness of prose and the pithiness of poetry; words are translated into fragrance notes, phrases into accords: the finished composition is a retelling of the tale. Like a good book, these olfactory nods to great literature offer a tantalizing escape from the daily routine, captivate us and sweep us off on a journey through time and space.
Nomenclature, an avant-garde fragrance project from New York, presents revolutionary aromatic molecules from the cutting edge of contemporary perfumery. With their ultra-modern compositions, fragrance aficionados Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero unite design, art and expert know-how. Each creation revolves around 5 synthetic fragrance molecules that have had a lasting influence on modern perfumery. These secret superstars have long worked behind the scenes in carefully guarded fragrance laboratories. Many famous iconic scent creations wouldn’t exist without them. They appear in the supporting role of a formula, but are actually principal players. The “heroes” of a fragrance are, of course, the natural odorants, which always get to bathe in the limelight. But the true revolutionaries of the fragrance world are those conceived of, conjured up and optimized by scientists in creative labs. They are inspired by and mimic nature, perfecting the distinctive character of an aromatic substance, leading us into fragrance worlds inaccessible by means of botany alone. They open the portals to new dimensions, allowing us to expand the scope of our imagination. From the synergy of poetry and science emerge fragrances imbued with the beauty of modernity. Nomenclature casts 5 modern aromatic protagonists in compositions with all the potential of becoming 21st century classics.
JUL ET MAD
The magical encounter of a man and a woman on the streets of Paris was the spark that ignited the inspiration for this emotional fragrance line: a meeting of two cultures, two continents, two passions, two souls – a love story in scent. Each creation in the collection is a distinctive, stand-alone artwork that conveys the ardor of the most precious moments in this fortuitous “histoire d’amour”. Jul and Mad, the brand founders and protagonists of its story, are the sole authors of the collection concept and design. Jul et Mad celebrates the art of French perfumery with a clear focus on the perfumer’s craft. The resulting “perfumes without compromise” are scents of mysterious depth and a new dimension in sensuality – to try them is to be scintillated and seduced.
A Long Time Ago In Argentina
In 19th century Argentina, two very different families crossed paths. Their meeting resulted in a major contribution to leading Argentina into a modern future. In 1862, General Bartolomé Mitre became the first president of the independent, freshly reunited Argentina. He sought investors to build a railway line connecting the interior with the capital, Buenos Aires. He found his backers in Charles and Walter Morrison, who put up funds for the railway that would support the journey of the young country on its way to industrialization.140 years later, two of their descendants met and fell in love: Marina Sersale, great-great-granddaughter of James Morrison, a documentary filmmaker who grew up in Italy and England, and Sebastián Alvarez Murena, the great-great-grandson of Bartolomé Mitre, who grew up in his native Argentina, but works as a journalist in Italy. When they learned of the shared history of their families – a union between them, so to speak, already formed so long ago – the couple were inspired to create a fragrance collection based on the extraordinary story. Launched in 2012, ALTAIA – an acronym of A Long Time Ago In Argentina – is the expression of Marina and Sebastian’s love of artistic perfumes and the stories they tell.
Gritti is built on a centuries-old family perfumery heritage. The new line, launched in 2010, reinterprets the original formulas of direct ancestor Alvise Gritti, a 16th century Venetian nobleman and alchemist. An eccentric and itinerant traveller, he was also deeply immersed in Venetian court culture, including its vice and intrigue. The brand logo is the Gritti coat of arms, which bears the Latin motto: sustinet nec fatiscit – he holds up and does not weary. Gritti fragrances thus bear the seal of one of the most revered and prominent Doge dynasties of the “Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia” – the most serene republic of Venice. Alvise Gritti was a pioneer in the creation of perfumes that arouse emotions and tell stories, and today’s Gritti scents uphold the tradition, breathing new life into tales of the fascinating world of Renaissance Venice. They tell of the Doges and court life, of dissolute courtesans obsessed with elegance and sensuality and of the multicultural nature of Venetian society even then. Drawing on this colorful tapestry of impressions, the fragrances interpret the rich historical epoch with formidable mastery.
AEDES DE VENUSTAS
Soon after opening in 1995 in New York’s Greenwich Village, Aedes de Venustas (Lat. for Temple of Beauty) had already become a Mecca for fragrance lovers from throughout the globe. Its Bohemian style is now legendary. Robert Gerstner and Karl Bradl, both native Bavarians, were the first to establish the culture of French perfume in New York, and their shop quickly went from insider tip to undisputed Manhattan “in” spot.
In 2012, Gerstner and Bradl fulfilled a long-cherished desire when they presented their own fragrance collection. Bertrand Duchaufour, Ralf Schwieger, Alberto Morillas, Rodrigo Flores-Roux and François Pellegrin translated Karl Bradl’s bold and über-creative ideas into scents that transmit emotional stories, personal travel recollections and profound, intensive sensations. The eight compelling eau de parfum variations present surprising combinations of frankincense with unexpected ingredients, such as tomato leaf, rhubarb, vanilla and salty mineral notes. AEDES DE VENUSTAS delights lovers of frankincense and bestows unforgettable moments of happiness.
Unconventional, ardent, courageous and always on the lookout for new inspirations: hot-blooded Sicilian Giuseppe Imprezzabile has dedicated himself heart and soul to scent. His fragrance collection MEO FUSCIUNI takes its name from his nickname, Meo, and an epithet that was his grandfather’s description of the young Giuseppe, a curious boy always in motion, like flowing– fusciuni – water.
The trained aromatario studied Herbal Techniques at the University of Parma’s School of Pharmacology; anthropology in Morocco; and ethnobotany in Turkey. Already perfectly at home in the world of herbs, spices, and essential oils, in 2009, Giuseppe Imprezzabile fulfilled a lifelong dream by creating his own fragrance line: MEO FUSCIUNI. With a passion for vigorous, dramatic, profound scents full of character, the nose from Sicily was soon a force to be reckoned with on the international artistic perfumery scene.
MiN NEW YORK
MiN NEW YORK is an avant-garde art project from the United States that transcends borders and blazes new trails. Chad Murawczyk uses his MiN NEW YORK Scent Stories to present a contemporary lifestyle. His bold compositions are a striking union of emotional fragrance architecture and extravagant design.
is creativity focuses on artistic freedom and raw materials of outstanding quality. 16 individual scent ideas reflect personal memories, passions and emotional high points of his life. Exclusive aromatic substances and exquisite materials meld to form artworks borne by profound feelings. The MiN NEW YORK scent project inspires us to rethink our understanding of fragrance in the classic sense, and invites us to open up to new impulses. Chad Murawczyk is always on the lookout for new ideas and challenges. He infuses the collection with an assured sense of style and keen instinct for success stories. His many years of experience give the personal “short stories” by MiN NEW YORK their own very special, distinctive character.
It is a vast and varied portfolio of fragrance creations with one thing in common. They all spring form the same inexhaustible source: the visionary imagination of Serge Lutens. Every scent that bears his name was developed entirely by the master himself – from the initial idea to the construction concept to the finished fragrance. He even designs the flacons: beautifully streamlined bottles with an elegant cap or atomizer that reflects the exceptional quality of the precious liquid within. Serge Lutens is a pioneer in the world of perfume artistry. Growing up in Lille, northern France, was a formative influence on his relationship to fragrance. The enticing aromas of the Levant were constant companions as he walked down the Rue Tournai to school. It was a very different type of Lille street: many North African immigrants had settled there early on. The foreign smells, the special atmosphere and air of mystery fascinated young Serge from the start. After a long, varied and illustrious international career and extensive travel, he is now based in Marrakesh, where he has lived and worked for many years. Serge Lutens fragrances exude an exotic magic, enticing us to enter a world of mysticism and spirituality.
The ‘Come Hell or High Water’ Collection
BeauFort London has launched a collection of five distinctive fragrances. Leo Crabtree, the creative captain of the BeauFort project drew his inspiration from Britain’s rich nautical past. Driven by curiosity and the desire to cast light into the darker corners of history, the collection – bold, sometimes contrary and ever venturous – breaths new life into the fascinating, the peculiar, and the downright bizarre. ‘Come Hell or High Water’ is fuelled at all times by the desire to expand experience. These fragrances open a window to the collective subconscious, endeavoring to illuminate moments past, fragments of shared history. The identity of the BeauFort fragrance collection is deeply bound up with the sea, its traditions, superstitions and the seafaring way of life. Expect to discover an extraordinary, scintillating, scandalous, and very English example of artistic perfume mastery.
“I start out making something, but at a certain point it starts to make its own choices, all by itself”, says Alessandro Gualtieri. His style is unique and inimitable. His extraordinary perfumes are based on the highest-quality raw materials. Their intensely evocative effect oscillates between authenticity and pleasure, inspiration and a good dose of lunacy. Contrary to conventional scents, NASOMATTO fragrances are always centered on the various individual scent components and personal associative interpretations of the wearer.
Rapture, pleasure and a sense of promise that goes its unpredictable way – the fragrances by Alessandro Gualtieri spirit the wearer away on a journey full of climactic moments: from scents with names that clearly and unmistakably signpost the way ahead, to fragrances of overwhelming sensuality, to the olfactory ecstasy of a fusion of different scents. NASOMATTO is the art of letting the sense of smell alone be your guide.
Filippo Sorcinelli, scion of a prominent Bolognese family with a centuries-old textile manufacturing business, laid the foundation for this new, youthful perfume house. For generations, his family has held the privileged warrant of official purveyor to the Papel Curia. The elaborate and lavish robes of the Roman clerics bear witness to the rich heritage and consummate artisan skill of the family’s traditional production operation.
In 2015 the close association to the Papal Curia gave rise to the idea of enhancing the textile manufactory with a companion fragrance line. It would be devoted, appropriately, to frankincense and spirituality, but also to an infinite spirit that transcends all boundaries.
NISHANE is the first and as yet only Turkish fragrance brand to have received international acclaim immediately following its launch. This very special collection was born in 2015 in Istanbul, where East and West meet and meld. As a product of this unique and authentic cultural environment NISHANE spans a bridge between Orient and Occident.
Inspired by the long tradition of a city that has played host to many different cultures over the course of its history, Creative Directors Murat Katran and Mert Güzel, both Istanbul natives, have created an exceptional, artistically sophisticated fragrance collection. Sublime and rare essences provide the basis for this extraordinary and exclusive line, to the delight of niche-market perfume lovers the world over.
Vincent Micotti was born into an artist family in Lausanne. As a teenager he had already discovered his passion for perfumes. He translates dedicated musicianship – Micotti was a professional classical cellist - and broad general knowledge of art into highly expressive elixirs with a strong narrative ambiance: “What fascinates me in the process of perfume creation is the possibility to project the most abstract concepts into emotions while remaining within the realm of an intangible artwork. Using my imagination and creativity to sketch an exquisite wonderland is my greatest passion in life.”
Micotti’s fragrances are inspired by the beauty of nature and art. Each olfactory composition has a distinctive character that captures extraordinary, emotional moments. Each sent is designed to accentuate the individuality and sensuality of its wearer, unleash unfettered flights of fancy, and underscore every look with a bold personal statement. Vincent Micotti’s desire to practice perfumery in a truly contemporary idiom is expressed in his determination to make fragrances made of over 90% select natural ingredients. He is also co-designer of the iconic “dressed up“ flacon, which lends the product a bespoke appearance befitting its exclusive status.
Affinessence founder Sophie Bruneau is an expert in haute parfumerie, well connected in the fragrance world and personally acquainted with its top talents. Her collection ‘Notes de Fond’ is devoted solely to the essences that conventionally serve as base notes. These intensive, long-lasting fragrance notes that represent the quintessence of the perfumer’s art here take center stage. Musk, amber, patchouli, vanilla, sandalwood and sometimes a hint of basmati rice lend these scents their mesmerizing, sensual magnetism. Their unique magic comes to full fruition on the skin, exuding reassurance, trust and self-confidence. They touch the senses, immersing us in a world full of exotic enchantment; they take hold and don’t let go. The Affinessence approach, pulling the base notes into the foreground, is completely new. Elegant and infallibly persistent, they offer a genuine “scent signature”. These perfumes can even be worn under a favorite everyday fragrance to underscore its sensuality and create a truly unique, bespoke scent. Affinessence is a highly sophisticated concept with results that are refined, exotic and utterly captivating.
The fragrance house Maître Parfumeur et Gantier was founded in 1988 by influential French perfumer Jean-Francois Laporte. The passionate olfactory artist passed away in 2011, but his brand lives on, and continues to find its inspiration in classic 17th century French perfumery.
The fragrances are notable for their strong expression of both tradition and modernity. Bold, distinctive, and particularly rare ingredients lend each scent creation its especially spirited and inimitable character. The creator was enthralled by the world of opera and Baroque aesthetics, and travelled extensively in far-flung corners of the earth. All of these elements provided inspiration that made an indelible mark on Laporte’s perfume artistry. The unique fragrance signature of this great master is a legacy that will garner an enthusiastic response for a long time to come.
HUMIECKI & GRAEF
Cologne-based brand HUMIECKI & GRAEF puts its own twist on fragrance market conventions, rearranging and reinterpreting classic methods of concept development and design. The brand revolves around the core fragrance series co-created by top collaborative noses “Les Christophes” – Christophe Laudamiel and Christof Hornetz. A whole spectrum of human emotions, from fury to folly, served as inspiration for the composition of truly out-of-the-ordinary fragrances. The scents play all the notes on the aroma scale, in unusual chords. In Multiple Rouge, a fragrance about “ecstatic joy on the cusp of sentimentality” we discover a composition including wild red berries, frozen orange and immortelle absolute. In Skarb, a perfume inspired by the masculine melancholy of the “deep Slavic soul”, a progressive interpretation of a woody-spicy fragrance that includes the interplay of lovage, frankincense and musk notes.
The same degree of sensitivity applied to the scent composition has also gone into the carefully detailed visual design of the brand. The flacons design is contemporary elegant-minimalist, with a special signature adaptation for each individual fragrance: the cap and the band around the bottle that bears the name are rendered in different materials, textures and colors for each scent. The HUMIECKI & GRAEF journey takes us through a multitude of inspirations and narratives to the depths our culture.
by Antonio Gardoni
Italian architect and designer Antonio Gardoni, born in Brescia, beguiles with his unusual fragrance creations, which transport us through space and time. In Gordoni’s Bogue-Fumoir, an idiosyncratic “creative grotto” – a fantastical potpourri of perfumery artifacts, bric-a-brac and rare raw materials – woods, resins, roots and exotic plants are stored along with materials such as stone and metals. This cabinet of curiosities is the fruit of Gardoni’s extensive travels and provides the basis for his work to establish a new perception of fragrance. The Bogue scents are developed at night, when the sounds and smells of the day recede, leaving a quiet space for experiments. Antonio Gardoni uses ancient techniques and modern intuition to create contemporary fragrances. In his career as an architect and designer he learned to build in layers and to think in subtraction. Gordoni sees his perfumes as rooms, each with its own mood, texture, light and colors, just waiting to be explored.
by Geza Schön
Escentric Molecules is the brand of perfumer Geza Schön. The Berliner “nose” founded it with the aim of setting new accents in the world of fragrance. His scents are unusual, surprising and bewildering. They do not conform to classic market constraints, and instead put the focus on a single substance and its effect. For Escentric Molecules he created two versions of each fragrance. The “Molecules“ versions are each based on a single synthetic odorant molecule. This is a revolutionary use of aromatic substances and a total departure from the classic fragrance pyramid with head, heart and base notes. The “Escentric“ version takes a flight of olfactory fancy around the same molecule. For this, Schön deploys an unusually high concentration of the base molecule and creates shrewd, minimalist compositions to accompany it. Can a fragrance be revolutionary? This is a truly provocative question. There is much about Escentric Molecules to suggest it can. But the brand has, without question, achieved its goal of setting new accents in the world of fragrance.
The creative roots of Australian Designer Naomi Goodsir lie in millinery. After earning her degree in fashion design in Sidney and apprenticing under a close protégé of Elsa Schiaparelli, Naomi turned her talents exclusively to hat making. For over ten years she worked as a milliner, designing and producing inventive one-off pieces, strictly in keeping with the tradition of the trade.
In 2008, she broadened her scope of creative production to include handbags and accessories for women and men in search of exclusive offerings in an alternative design style. In the meantime, Naomi Goodsir has launched her first five perfumes – as unique, expressive and exclusive as her signature hats, bags and accessories.
Sara Carner founded Carner Barcelona in 2010 based on the desire to capture the intoxicating atmosphere of her Catalonian hometown as a sensuous adventure in scent. Carner Barcelona is a collection of exquisite perfumes made of the finest ingredients and manufactured entirely in Barcelona by master perfumers and true artisans using time-honored, traditional techniques. Carner Barcelona is absolutely committed to the responsible use of natural resources: the raw materials used in the fragrances are all renewable and sourced according to fair trade conditions. Sara Carner finds inspiration in the meaningful yet evanescent moments of life. The scents of the native Catalan embody the spirit of Barcelona – its Mediterranean soul, lively squares and the famous bustling tree-lined Las Ramblas. The fragrances tell stories of longing and true emotions, of memories and extraordinary encounters. Carner Barcelona perfumes are for individualists who can afford the luxury of being unique.
SACRE DU PRINTEMPS
A tribute to Igor Stravinsky
Paris, 1913: the premiere of Stravinsky’s ballet and orchestral work ‘Sacre du Printemps’ for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russe takes the music world by storm, marking the beginning of the modern era. To mark the 100th anniversary of this sensational turning point in music Vincent Micotti/YS Usac created a fragrance worthy of the occasion: an extraordinary scent, savage, radiant, assertive. The overture begins with smoky accords, followed by unconventional greens and finishing with a slightly sweet, sensuous coda – daring, provocative, simply ingenious.
When well-established Dutch fashion designer Lillian Driessen decided to launch her own label for fashion and furniture design, shop concepts and a fragrance collection, she chose the euphonious brand name Maria Lux. Driessen describes the fictitious character as her “perfect alter ego” and her muse: the name Maria evokes images of the virgin, the mother, and the lover. Lux, on the other hand, stands for the trinity of light, luxury and lust. The perfume line MariaL is a collaborative project with Alessandro Gualtieri, AKA The Nose. The initiator, in her own words: “The ‘L’ is me Lillian Driessen, designer and creative director. (…)I’ve been working in this profession since 1987. I embrace work-in-progress, the effort and collective excitement that lies in the process. As I have touched and been touched, there are many stories to tell. The house creates anarchic tailored elegance and raw luxury. A concept I adapt to all products I develop, executed and produced with love and care by masters of their craft. Everything we do we approach with personal attention. We search for exclusivity, privacy and delicacy in a thoughtful but informal manner. The perfumes are inspired by love, the most complex, by far most grandiose human emotion, which will never materialize.”
D.S. & DURGA
The brand D.S. & Durga was founded in early 2000 by D.S. (David Seth Moltz) and Durga (Kavi Moltz) in Brooklyn, New York. They started out by experimenting in their own kitchen, where together they turned their homemade distillates of buds, barks and herbs into aftershave creations for their friends. The manufacturing process remains reminiscent of the traditional preindustrial production sites of early North America. The makers believe that fragrance can conjure unseen worlds, and that the evocative power of scent is equal to that of sight and sound stimuli. For D.S. & Durga, artistry is the first priority. The founding couple regard the brand as their own special universe: all fragrances are crafted in careful artisanal processes exclusively at their Bronx production facility. They draw inspiration from legacy herbalist knowledge; from the ritual medicine of aboriginal peoples; from tradition and legend and American history – its iconic movements and fascinating footnotes. The fragrances tell of gold prospectors, aristocrats, homesteaders, pioneering women, salons, work benches, cowboys – fragments of half-forgotten events and tales from foreign lands. The manufacturing processes are highly sophisticated, the contents of highest quality: overall product excellence is more important than the unit numbers.
DUSITA Oudh Infini / Melodie de l‘Amour / Issara / Sillage Blanc / La Douceur de Siam HUMIECKI & GRAEF Eau Radieuse / Bosque / Geste / Clemency / Candour / Askew / Multiple Rouge / Blask / Skarb MEO FUSCIUNI Odor 93 / L’Oblio / Narcotico / Luce / Notturno / Rites de Passage / Shukran / Ciavuri d’Amuri MIN NEW YORK Coda / Moon Dust / Long Board / Onsen / Plush / Dune Road / Chef’s Table / Momento / Dahab / Ad Lumen / Shaman / Magic Circus / Old School Bench / Barrel / Forever Now / The Botanist MONA DI ORIO Lux / Oudh Osmanthus / Myrrh Casati / Bohea Bohème / Nuit Noir / Violette Fumée / Eau Absolue / Vetyver / Vanille / Tubéreuse / Musc / Ambre / Rose Etoile de Hollande / Cuir / Suède de Suéde / Dojima NAOMI GOODSIR / Bois d’Ascèse / Cuir Velours / Iris Cendre / Or de Serail / Nuit de Bakélite NASOMATTO Terroni / Blamage / Black Afgano / Baraonda / Pardon / Duro / China White / Absinth / Narcotic Venus / Silver Musk / Hindu Grass NISHANE Ambra Calabria / Afrika Olifant / Boszphorusz / Wulong Chà / Pasion Choco / Munegu / Spice Bazaar / Patchuli Kozha / Tuberoza / Sultan Vetiver / Suède et Safran / Musiqa Oud / Hundred Silent Ways / Fan your Flames / Hacivat / Zenne / Karagoz ORTO PARISI Bergamask / Boccanera / Brutus / Seminalis / Stercus / Viride QUARTANA Poppy Soma / Digitalis / Bloodflower / Hemlock / Midnight Datura / Venetian Belladonna / Lily oft he Valley / Mandrake / Wolfsbane UNUMRosa Nigra / Symphonie Passion / Ennui Noir / Lavs / Opus 1144 / Pleinjeu / Voix Humaine / Contre Bombarde YS UZAC Oud Anka / Dragon Tatoo / Sacre du Printemps / Air 16 / Théros / Lale / Métabole / Pohadka / Monodie / Bom Incense / Bom Jasmine / Satin Doll / Immortal Beloved FUEGUIA Xocoatl / La Joven Noche / Ambar de los Andes / La Cautiva / Flores Negras / Pampa Seca / Mbucuruya / Pulperia / Darwin / Elogio de la Sombra / Misiones / Quilombo / Biblioteca de Babel / Tinta Roja / Amalia / Candido Lopes / Agua Magnoliana / Agua de Gardenia / Malena / Entre Rios / Caoba / Thays / Ballena de la Pampa / Equation / Cactus Azul / Halo Lunar / Luz sin Freno / Alguien Suena / Iberà / Malabrigo / Juan Manuel / Don Giovanni / Sudestada / Hornero / Metafora / Conquista / Komorebi / Asagiri / Zonda / El Dorado / Ett Hem / Amalia Gourmand / Humboldt / Beagle / Laberinto / Muskara Vetivera / Muskara Phero J / Muskara Geranium / Muskara Jasmin / Muskara Boswelia / Muskara Bursera / Muskara Rosa / Muskara Osmanthus / Muskara Santalum / Muskara Pogostemon AEDES DE VENUSTAS Palisandre d’Or / Copal Azur / Pelargonium / Iris Nazarena / Signature / Grenadilles d’Afrique / Cierge de Lune / Oeillet Bengale ALTAIA Ombu / Don’t cry for me / By any other name / Yu Son / Tubereuse Blue NOMENCLATURE Holy Wood / Shiso / Lumenesce / Effloresce / Adrett / Iridel / Orbital MARIA LUX Yours Truly / Yours Madly / Yours Deeply / Mogadess / Aramesh CREED Bois du Portugal / Erolfa / Tabarome / Green Irish Tweed / Royal Oud / Original Santal / Millesime Imperial / Original Vetiver / Royal Water / Silver Mountain Water / Himalaya / Virgin Island Water / Love in White / Spring Flower / Love in Black / Aventus / Aventus for her / Aqua Fiorentina / Fleurs de Gardenia / Royal Princess Oud / Fleurs de Bulgarie / Asian Green Tea / Cèdre Blanc / Aberdeen Lavender / Iris Tubereuse / Vetiver Geranium VOLNAY Etoile d’Or / Objet Céleste / Brume d’Hiver / Yapana / Perlerette / Ambre de Siam / Mimeomai GRITTI Rialto / Giudecca / Alexandra / Lu / Alvise ALKYMIA Aqua Regia / Layla / Luna / Aurum / Ilm / Jabir / Hayat / Kemi TERESA HELBIG Old Money / Tangier Memories / A bulldog in the atelier / Teresa BOTTEGA PROFUMIERA Shardana / In Flora / Polianthes / Gourmand / Galantuomo / Rose Poudré / Mon Jardin CARNER BACELONA Rose&Dragon / Black Calamus / Sandor 70`s / Latin Lover / Sweet William / Besos / El Born / Costarela / Palo Santo / Tardes / Cuirs / D600 / Rima XI RAMON MONEGAL Pure Mariposa / Flamenco / Ambra di Luna / Entre Naranjos / Mon Cuir / Impossible iris / Kiss my name / Cotton Musk / Cuirette / Agar Musk DIFFERENT COMPANY Santo Incienso / Bergamote / Sublime Balkiss / Pure Eve / Oriental Lounge / Adjatay / Sel de Vetiver / Oud Shamash / Oud for Love / Aurore Nomade / Bois d’Iris / Jasmin Nuit JUL ET MAD Fugit Amor / Mon Seul Desir / Bella Donna / Secret du Paradis Rouge / Amour de Palazzo / Stilettos on Lex / Néa / Nin-Shar / Garuda / Terasse à St. Germain / Aqua Sextius MANCERA Black Line / Lemon Line / Wild Cherry / Wild Leather / Aoud Vanille / Aoud Blu Notes / Roses Jasmine / Aoud Café / Black Prestigium / Roses Greedy / Roses & Chocolate / Roses Vanille ATELIER COLOGNE Poivre Electrique / Philtre Ceylan / Mimosa Indigo / Encens Jinhae / Tobacco Nuit / Clémentine California / Oolan Infini / Bois Blond / Grand Néroli / Mistral Patchouli / Orange Sanguine / Jasmin Angélique / Vanille Insensée / Trèfle Pur / Bergamote Soleil / Vetiver Fatal / Cedrat Enivrant MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER Vocalise / Bahiana / Secret Datura / Centaure / Ambre Précieux / Eau pour le Jeune Homme / Soie Rouge / Garrigue / Eau de Camelia / Fleurs des Comores / Grain de Plasir / Eau de Gantier / Roses Muskissime / Bois de Turquie / Or des Indes / Cuir Fetiche / Rose Opulent / Santal Noble POUR TOUJOURS Boule de gomme / Tudo Bem / Pyrus / Graines / Bootilicious / Khamsin BEAUFORT Vi et Armis / Fathom V, Tonnerre / Lignum Vitae / Cœur de Noir DS&DURGA Missisipi Medicine / Cowboy Grass / Bowmakers / Siberian Snow / Coriander / Freetrapper / Burning Barbershop / Radio Bombay / White Peacock Lily / Rose Atlantic / Italian Citrus / MIRKO BUFFINI Moa / Mu / Saba / Ki / OG / Gods / Kirk / Haecceitas / No.31 / Moxi / Haiku / Klito / La Chute d’Eau MALIN+GOETZ Dark Rum / Citron Vert / Moroccan Fig JULISIS L’Elexir du Jour / L’Elexir d’Amour BOGUE Maai / Oe HYLNDS Foxglove / Pale Grey Mountain - Small Black Lake / Isle Ryder / Bitter Rose - Broken Spear / Spirit of the Glen SERGE LUTENS Féminité du Bois / Ambre Sultan / Fleurs d’Oranger / La Fille de Berlin / Chergui / Nuit de Cellophane / Un Bois Vanille / Five o’clock au Gingembre / Datura Noir / Clair de Musc / Santal Majuscule / L’Orphelin / La Religieuse / Vetiver Oriental / La Vierge de Fer / Baptême du Feu / Dent de Lait / L’Eau / L’Eau Froide / Laine de Verre / L’Eau de Paille ESCENTRIC MOLECULE Escentric 01 / Molecule 01 / Escentric 02 / Molecule 02 / Escentric 03 / Molecule 03 / Escentric 04 / Molecule 04 / MIZENSIR Poudre d’Or / Epine de Rose / Tender Oud / Elixir de Musc / Très Chere / Rose Exaltante / Original Oud / Bois Iridescent / Little Bianca / Perfect Oud / Bois de Mysore / Ideal Oud / Alma de Rosario / Icy Spicy / Edition de Veronique / L’Envers du Paradis / L’Ombre du Lys / Luxury / Musc Eternel / Mythique Vetiver / Sweet Praline / White Neroli WIENERBLUT Freudian Wood / Nord du Nord / Sale Marino / Ex Voto / Hesperia / Palais Nizam / Volkamaria / The Uncanny